Don’t be discouraged – the big downer was just that! A big descent..

I was gently awoken by shuffling pilgrims moving about the Roncesvalles dorm getting ready for the day. It stays dark until almost 8 when we were required to be on our way so all were busy going about their business quietly and efficiently. I was a little sore and moved slowly to start. Jacques the Frenchman from Corsica who slept opposite seemed to be oblivious to it all and slept on despite the ruckus. Eventually he popped his head up and declared “We have been sleeping with an animal!” As it turned out the guy on the other side of his wall had snored so loudly he had vibrated windows and walls but thankfully also frightened the bed bugs away. I had been saved by my silicone swimming earplugs and really barely heard him. You may recall a previous torture bestowed upon me by the Korean national snoring champion at this very place. The value of quality earplugs should not be underestimated.

After this eloquent declaration Jacques continued “These people are insane! Is everyone walking in the dark? Where I come from we only get up early for pleasure! or money!”

Once reminded of the need to vacate before 8 he quickly packed his leather bag and headed on his way. I was concerned as he had not seemed prepared for this camino at all. A heavy leather shoulder bag seemed an odd choice.

We headed out past the Santiago sign through lovely villages and paddocks.

This time I chose to walk through a small stream rather than balance across the concrete pylons.. unfortunately the flow was a little stronger than expected and the crossing was a little slippery so I held onto the pylons for each step and managed to get water in one of my shoes as I swung my leg across . Wet socks and walking are not necessarily a great combination and I noticed one of my toes started to rub on the top of my boot in the short journey to second breakfast where I was able to dry it out for a while.

Some time up the track the clip clock of hooves came up behind us with Jacques manoeuvring two beautiful ponies he had brought over from Corsica. Clearly the leather bag was not quite a problem after all.

Off they went up the next big hill and we saw occasional signs that we were heading in the same direction.

I had debated weather to risk this section with my repaired foot or whether to catch a taxi to Zubiri. All seemed to be going well so I continued on. At the top of the final ascent others sat relaxing at a food caravan and we were relieved to see a sign indicating only 1 hour 20 minutes to Zubiri. so off we went without stopping for another snack.

Well neither Michelle nor I could remember how bad this section actually was. Perhaps we had blocked it out due to the potential trauma of reliving it over and over. We also wondered how some sections compared to the rocky paths of Corsica and how the ponies coped.

Each time we completed a stretch of downhill hell we imagined the worse was over. But it kept going on and on and at each turn the ravine was worse. Thank heavens I had hiking poles and thank heavens I was in peak condition after training for this journey!

One or two people passed us but we were in no way interested in speeding up. This was downright dangerous.

Eventually we made it into zubiri and the grand comfort of Suseia to help us recover This was a lovely place to stay with healthy food, clothes washed and dried. A doona and towel each. I’m going to share the menu with you as it was a magnificent meal “typical” for the area Navarra and it was served with care and kindness. Hasta luego

The menu