Well, actually, yesterday was tough. Today was a beautiful day – again! We had enjoyed the company of the young ones for a while at the lovely hotel the Choirmaster had booked for us. We had slept in the most comfortable bed we had seen since leaving home. And, ironically, I couldn’t use it but…
Category: Camino de Santiago 2018
Day 39 O’Pedrouzo to Santiago – Ending with a Bang! Part A 16.4km
You may or may not be wondering are they there yet? Are they there yet? The short answer is yes. But the journey into Santiago took an unexpected twist and one day longer than anticipated. I apologise for the delay in updating but read on and you will understand why. So I woke at 4am…
Day 38 Azure to oPedrouzo – the Penultimate day – Scallops and Swollen limbs! 21.56kms 9.38hrs
Scallops beers and swollen limbs sound like a strange mixture. But they were all integral parts of the day. Firstly my beloved was in pain. This was the first time in two Caminos I had seen him hobbling and we were only two days out from Santiago! Clearly speeding up had not been to his…
Day 37 Palas del Rey to Arzua 30.52km 11hrs 47mins Not too bad for an injured warrior!
Only 2 days out from Santiago people. I headed off early again so that I could make some headway. Once my beloved caught up I encouraged him to go on ahead. I was slow but I could then take my time without feeling pushed to keep walking when I was in pain. Not that he…
Day 36 Portomarin to Palas del Ray 9hrs 55mins 21km – Slow and steady wins the race
I’ve got to be quick here. I am trying to catch up these last few posts before we head into Santiago. I apologise for my tardiness. I have been busy with friends and physiotherapists during my off time. But here is how the day went. Our dear Camino friend had come all the way to…
Day 35 Barbadelo to Portomarin – 20kms 8 hrs 15mins – Back in the game
What a wonderful day! I could walk again! And there was hope we could still make Santiago together. The fisio yesterday obviously helped but I woke early and also stretched and exercised for about an hour. I used my mini tens and rolled on the spikey ball. It’s hard to explain how stiff one gets…
Day 34 Fiobal to Barbadelo – 11.05 km 5hrs 24mins – Reaching the end of the Road
I told you I was ready for a taxi yesterday when the oasis of Fiobal appeared. I had gone to sleep with great hopes that the rest would cure the problem and in the morning I would be fine. That’s how it usually happens isn’t it? Desafortunatemente not today! I was unable to walk without…
Day 33 O’Cebreiro to Fillobol 17.95 9hrs 10mins – Every Dog has its Day
I wanted to get to Triacastela. I wanted to walk there. But I was in pain and I thought it was all downhill. Thankfully I was wrong. Well kind of wrong. And I’m not sure I should be thankful about that. There were a significant number of uphills to begin with but nothing like the…
Day 32 Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro 12km 5.4 hours – Up into the clouds
What a wonderful way to start the day! Serenaded by the singing Germans as we wandered off into the dark again. The first few km’s were flat and easy but I had a reasonably good recollection of the walk (or should I say climb) for the next 8 kilometres or so. As soon as I…
Day 31 Cacabelos to Vega del Varce 26.69km 8hours 45 mins Ultreia Ultreia Onwards and Upwards!
We had a bit of a sleep in today because we thought there was a communal breakfast at 6:30. We were wrong! All of our friends left early nevertheless we still started our day in the dark. And I still had a problem with my hip and lower back but so far this only bothered…
Day 30 Molinaseca to Cacabelos 8hrs 50mins 22.8kms Over 4 weeks and 637km down (according to Brierley guide book)!
The descent yesterday had given me more than just memories. As soon as I strapped my pack on it hit me. I now had the privilege of back and hip pain! It was extreme. As soon as we left the albergue I felt the stabbing pain in my lower back and hip. This is not…
Day 29 Rabanal to Molinaseca 9hrs 27mins 21.94km A Rose amongst Thorns
The distance wasn’t huge today but I had a slight recollection of a high level of difficulty. We had stopped at El Acebo last time so I could use the biggest pool on the Camino (always too cold for my beloved unless its Queensland in the middle of summer!). This time we would descend to…
Day 28 Astorga to Rabanal 6hrs 54mins 21.22km – The Fräulein with the package!
Well after a great sleep in a real bed it was destined to be another good day wasn’t it? We left a little later than usual, a shorter day, it was a bit cooler, and we wanted our E75 euros worth at the nice hotel so we headed out past the Cathedral at 8am! It…
Day 27 San Martin to Astorga 26.28km 9hrs 40mins – Compleanos felice!
I’m sure you realise by now that the time given above is a door to door time and includes all breaks and everything in between. So a long day can either indicate a day of struggle, a lot of rest stops or a bit of site seeing and/or socialising. Every day is different but one…
Day 26 León to San Martin 27km 9hrs 30mins
Before I get to our travels today I must point out that the albergue Globetrotter was the worst sleep we never had! The bar opposite was open until 5.30am and the noise was literally at our bedroom window. There was also someone allowing patrons of the bar in and out so they could use our…
Day 25 León rest day
I’m not sure it is possible to convey the sheer joy of sleeping in. My only dilemma was that I was starving and had to go down to eat in the dining room. Of course this effort woke me and meant I couldn’t get back to sleep. My beloved snoozed away until 10am – just…
Day 24 Mansilla de Las Mulas to León 20.32 km 8hrs 20mins – “Only” 20 kilometres!
Everyone was saying it. It must be an easy day. “Only 20kms today”. Since when is a 20km walk to be preceded by the word “only”? The truth is though that 20km is “only” after walking 25kms plus. Besides I think it is the breaking point for many people. Beyond 20 the pain and exhaustion…
Day 23 Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas 27.65km 9hrs 40mins
Yep you guessed it – another early start after a pleasant night in a cupboard listening to the Brazilian snoring champions! Life is good! The positive of our albergue was that the hospitalario was up making coffee and breakfasts (read bread!) at 5. Also to cheer me up, while I was sipping coffee in the…
Day 22 Terradillos del los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino 24.48 km 9hrs – A challenge to the end!
Before arriving at Bercianos I vlogged to myself – I told myself to watch this if I ever want to do camino again. I shall mark it “In case of Camino Calling” and save it to my favourites! I have to admit this day was a struggle. We started early and headed out of town…
Day 21 Carrión to terrillos de templariars 28.13 km 10hrs 15 mins – A walk in the country
There was a great deal of excitement leaving the nunnery today. I don’t think I have ever seen so many people up so early. The Italians were up, the girls in the end two beds left at 4am, the Ukrainian James Bond look alike and his wife were up and so too were the singing…
Day 20 Fromista to Carrión de Los Condes- Get thee to the Nunnery! 21.8km 6.5hrs
Apologies for delays in posting. The wifi has been dreadful. Oh dear me! This ended up being one of the funniest nights ever. But let me start at the very beginning. After dinner last night we arrived back into the albergue before lockup time ready for a decent sleep given we were only in a…
Day 19 Castrojeriz to Frómista 26.77km 9hrs 9mins – A magical welcome to the Meseta
I want to be prophetic and share with everyone some words of wisdom that might help you on your way. But I am mere mortal. Anything I could share would be overshadowed by the wonder that greeted us to the plains of The Meseta! We started early again, we are champions! Actually we are frightened…
Day 18 Hornillos to Castrojeriz 21.18km 7hrs 10mins
We were up early today and out the door first in the albergue again. I had had my first breakfast in the albergue. They even had a toaster! So much for not eating bread – the choice was bread or no bread. I also had a cup of tea. I was ready and waiting patiently…
Day 17 Burgos to Hornillos de Camino 23.05km 6hrs 50mins – In search of a tree
Don’t forget to open this in WordPress and put a comment or click like so we know if you like keeping up with our journey ! We were in a nice hotel room last night – La Puebla – nice room nice staff and nice breakfast. Also up a bit late due to a farewell….
Day 16 Cardeñuela Riopico to Burgos 14.25km 4hrs 10mins – a rest day in Burgos
Rather than spend two nights in Burgos or somewhere else for a rest day, we had planned another short day which meant we needn’t arrive early because nothing would be opened anyway. We planned to have breakfast for a change and would still be there by lunch time. We had organised an American breakfast the…
Day 15 Villafranca monte de Oca to Cardeñuela Riopico 24.89km – 9hrs11mins -into the void!
This morning we left in the dark and we were the first to leave in the whole albergue. No wonder really, last night the choirmaster and I observed the comings and goings of everyone in the dormitory. There was not a person who walked past our beds at the entry door that wasn’t limping! Except…
Day 14 Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca 13.18 – 4hrs – Farewell Speedy
Today was going to be an easy day. Together with the Choirmaster we planned to reach the foot of another pass over a mountain range into Burgos. Last time we walked from Belorado to San Juan de Ortega and then to Burgos my feet were very angry with me. This time I at least wanted…
Day 13 Granon to Belorado 15.86km 5 hrs 9mins – Our rest day
There was breakfast from 5am in our albergue today which sounded perfect. Our hospitalario Josu was even up to prepare it for us. In reality it was bread and jam with a couple of cereals and coffee or tea. It wasn’t much but we weren’t going far and we could have second breakfast an hour…
Day 12 Azofra to granon – 23.17km 8hrs 5mins – The vegan who loved cheeses
This morning I woke very early with sore knees; what’s new you may ask – well the left one was quite swollen so I woke during the night and rubbed voltaren in it and put the mini beuren tens machine on it for a while. It actually worked and the swelling had gone by the…
Day 11 Navarette to Azofra 8 hrs 11mins 23.34kms – Rioja wine country – let the blisters begin!
Don’t worry! It’s a tiny little blister on my left big toe. It’s the sore knees that are more of a concern! We bought injinji toe socks for my beloved when we were in Pamplona and they seem to be working for him but my feet are different. You remember don’t you? I inherited my…
Day 10 Viana to Navarette 23.9km 9hrs 16mins – Farewell to our yoga guru!
It was going to be a sad day today as our Irish yoga guru was leaving us at Logrono. Nevertheless we were entering Rioja wine country and we were still in good company with Speedy Gonzalez (also known as the Brazilian diplomat) and the Irish Choirmaster. We did our usual early wake up and tried…
Day 9 Los Arcos to Viana 19 kms 6hrs 19mins – And then there were six!
My legs were on fire! But it was my knees that were going to feel it today. More of that later. We were coming closer to the day we would lose our Irish yoga guru because study and work back in Ireland were calling. We were all in high spirits though after having such a…
DAY 8 Estella to Los Arcos 8hrs 10mins 22.3 kms – the early bird and catching the worm 🐛
Even though we’d lost our Irish spy we were thrilled to be heading out in the dark to have a picnic with the Brazilian diplomat at the free wine fountain at Irachi. Trouble is, none of us bothered to check if it had a specific opening time. The assumption was that the monks had provided…
Day 7 Puente La Reina to Estella 7.45hrs 23.3km
Buenes Dias! Yay -we did it again. Up and out the door before sunrise – all three of us (or tree if your Irish). My beloved was unaware that we were on a time frame and had a secret rendezvous on the bridge at 5.45am. As many of the good albergues do, we found cereal…
Day 6 Pamplona to Puente la Reina 9hrs 26.7km
Before I start with todays post I want to let you know about a couple of other items I am pleased to have packed. I’m pretty sure I mentioned the sheeps wool the other day (fresh from the Nyngan farm I might add) but not sure that I praised the Leki hiking poles – they…
Day 5 Pamplona rest day
Just to keep you in the loop I thought I’d include this brief post. We ended up having a rest day in Pamplona as the cold or flu symptoms seemed to be hanging around me with aches and pains and fever and a bit of a runny nose. I decided to stay in bed until…
Day 4 Zubiri a Pamplona 22.41km 7hrs 41mins – Sweet memories to replace the painful ones
Today was interesting for a number of reasons – the people we would meet, the physical challenge and the distance we would cover yet again. Last night I had difficulty sleeping due to the not too distant fiesta music gently floating in through the window, combined with the general feeling of malaise associated with a…
Day 3 Hola Navarre Espana -Roncesvalles to Zubiri 8hrs 40 24.56km
8hrs 40mins 24.56km Eu15 each bed Eu12 dinner – Total Eu54 It was exciting leaving Roncesvalles this morning. It was dark, cool, there was a buzz in the air because many pilgrims actually start the journey here – In addition I was pain free! We passed our friends in hallways and bathrooms and visited the…
Day 2 One Perfect day we’ll go out walking 18.6 km 6.5hrs
Day 2 Orisson to Roncesvalles I will admit to warming up quite quickly after leaving Orisson but once we reached 1100m it is fair to say that the weather was pleasant. Cloud cover and altitude meant that the walk today was a vast improvement on yesterday. Both times I had walked this path previously the…
Day 1 Up up up into fires of hell! Saint Jean to Orisson
Day 1 10.53km 653m elevation gain max 34C Buen Camino me amigos! Day one done and dusted! (Photos delayed due to internet issues!) The night cooled down, and after going to sleep with fan on and a very light sarong as a sheet I pulled my blanket on sometime through the night. One of our…
The End of the Transit
Just a quick post this time to catch you up on our arrival in Spain. We had a one night stop over in San Sebastián and another transit the next day to St Jean pied de port. A delayed flight meant we didn’t arrive in our hotel in San Sebastián until 7pm. We showered changed…
Up up and away
D day arrived and we were even escorted into the airport this time by James and Lydia-. Remember how late we were last time? I think the boys turfed us out on the kerb and sped off into the sunset. Liam and Bruce bid us farewell at home this time – I’m sure Bruce was…
Preparaciones para el camino
Buenos Dias amigos, after a growing interest from friends I thought I would provide you with a rough idea of how we are preparing for our second Camino Frances. Or more specifically, how “I” am preparing given my history of pain when walking. As most of you will recall (from reading the earlier posts) I…
Camino Calling!
Aargh! How on earth could they be thinking about walking another 800km? Will he again accompany her on this slow walk across Spain? Will they finally learn to flamenco? Will the feet hold up? Isn’t one ruptured plantar fascia, a stress fracture or two and a moon boot enough? What on earth draws people back…