Well I’m sure I have said this already but it was hot, really hot , too flipping hot. I attended the pilgrimage mass and headed back to my accommodation to partake in the breakfast and take a leisurely stroll through the town. I had actually planned to take a taxi the first few kilometres because, lets face it, no-one wants to die of heat stroke at the beginning of a camino do they? But… unfortunately I misplaced the taxi rank!

Before I knew it I was following a french couple up a very large hill as I was totally enthralled with the camino plaques in the pavement all the way out of town. I was huffing and puffing and think I’d managed a total of about 2 or 3 kilometres (or maybe only one) when I happed upon a very cool looking van selling very cold drinks. Needless to say I had a stop and caught my breath and let my heart rate recover! The serveuse informed me I was over the worst of it and that the rest of the path was much easier. Little did she know what was to come over the next 15 or so kilometres.

I cant remember the exact order but let me give you the gist of it. There was a detour through an overgrown path around a town. So overgrown I had visions of vipers jumping out to attack so i moved so damned fast that I got even hotter! Someone before me had dropped a towel with safety pins which was no doubt meant to attach it to their pack. I picked it up assuming I’d meet them eventually. Just as the path cleared a little a group of french people with babies in backpacks had parked for a picnic in the middle of the path. And yes they’d lost the towel and were somewhat grateful I’d returned it to them.

I picked my way through and speed walked to the next town desperately seeking the ever present French public toilets- no need to stop on the trail it seems / no where to stop anyway. So I found Les toilettes and then in order to eat my lunch I found a seat with the other pilgrims under the trees outside the church. A cute little dog decided I’d be an easy target as soon as I opened my lunch. I intended to give him nothing but then he sat quietly in front of me with front legs up and just stared at me. He won. A pinch of pastry that’s all.

The lady beside me was only walking 10 kilometres a day so she was nearly done. She sat there munching an apple and reading a book.

Two younger French girls took off at haste as they were heading a few kilometres past Montbonnet. Thunder had been threatening for a while so I thought I’d better make haste too so I left the little doggy and the remaining pilgrim in each other’s company.

The thunder grew louder and the wind picked up. It was actually cooling down so I wasn’t too concerned when the rain drops started to fall on my trusty hiking umbrella. I saw some other pilgrims struggling with coats and rain ponchos and cant deny I felt just a little smug as I was able to stay cool and dry. But then the thunder struck again! And then the rain drops seemed to be getting bigger. Then it went away again just before it turned into hail. I followed a bunch of young kids, probably uni students on a short cut which was most definitely looking like an hypotenuse. I was thrilled! Google maps showed it as a path so I thought why not. Unfortunately I arrived at a barbed wire fence and a sign saying it was private and likely would be sued if I continued.

But where did those kids go? They didnt come back,they must’ve turned right and gone on to the road we should’ve taken. There’d been a number of signs warning about staying on the track but they referred to people of dubious character taking you off piste!

This was just me following a bunch of kids, who clearly didnt mind the odd hypotenuse themselves. This made it a longer day. I plodded on, umbrella up, and found myself planning a bus for the next day before I’,d even arrived at my first Gite. Mum used to call it a touch of the sun. I’d call it more than a touch – I thought I might succumb to a very hot end! And my Achilles was very angry with me. My feet were in agony, my mouth was dry and I plodded on desperately seeking shelter. Nada, nothing!

I also saw a dead viper! Was I right to scared?

At last I made it to my Gite! The owner very kindly helped me arrange to cancel my next night so I could bus ahead and escape the hills and the heat in order to save my Achilles. It was a great gite to meet some wonderful people from everywhere – well from everywhere in France and surprisingly one other Australian from Byron bay a mere 2 hours away from home!

Actually as dinner neared two other Australians appeared, a mother and young son from Melbourne with her French friend and their young sons. They were out out for a mother son French adventure together. They’d had the misfortune of choosing a donkey for assistance and a new experience however it seemed they’d spent the entire day cajoling him through the heat and the rain.

I happened to be in the same dorm as the families and was surprised to be woken in the night to hear ear piercing screaming despite wearing my block out earplugs. I was terrified that a child had been bitten by a snake when I saw the mother down on the floor with a phone light. i was convinced she was looking for the culprit. I was soon to discover he had actually had a horrible nightmare after which he vomited all over the floor and she was desperately trying to clean it up in the dark. Well that was something I had never experienced in all my Camino wanderings. I was genuinely concerned for the boy but was not in a position to assist as they had hydration supplies in waiting! Not something I could have prepared for on previous experience- but this hot weather was unusual and the impact on all was unpredictable. Let’s hope the worst of the heatwave has passed. Bon nui from Montbonnet 🙂