I was awake before they turned the music on at beillari this time. The Dutch girl was also up early and we both tiptoed around getting ourselves ready while the two young spanish men who had arrived late slept soundly. I became their worst nightmare once the lights in the hall came on. I was…
Tag: hiking
Day 40 Santiago a Santiago 4.65 kms – When the Going Gets Tough!
Well, actually, yesterday was tough. Today was a beautiful day – again! We had enjoyed the company of the young ones for a while at the lovely hotel the Choirmaster had booked for us. We had slept in the most comfortable bed we had seen since leaving home. And, ironically, I couldn’t use it but…
Day 38 Azure to oPedrouzo – the Penultimate day – Scallops and Swollen limbs! 21.56kms 9.38hrs
Scallops beers and swollen limbs sound like a strange mixture. But they were all integral parts of the day. Firstly my beloved was in pain. This was the first time in two Caminos I had seen him hobbling and we were only two days out from Santiago! Clearly speeding up had not been to his…
Day 37 Palas del Rey to Arzua 30.52km 11hrs 47mins Not too bad for an injured warrior!
Only 2 days out from Santiago people. I headed off early again so that I could make some headway. Once my beloved caught up I encouraged him to go on ahead. I was slow but I could then take my time without feeling pushed to keep walking when I was in pain. Not that he…
Day 36 Portomarin to Palas del Ray 9hrs 55mins 21km – Slow and steady wins the race
I’ve got to be quick here. I am trying to catch up these last few posts before we head into Santiago. I apologise for my tardiness. I have been busy with friends and physiotherapists during my off time. But here is how the day went. Our dear Camino friend had come all the way to…
Day 35 Barbadelo to Portomarin – 20kms 8 hrs 15mins – Back in the game
What a wonderful day! I could walk again! And there was hope we could still make Santiago together. The fisio yesterday obviously helped but I woke early and also stretched and exercised for about an hour. I used my mini tens and rolled on the spikey ball. It’s hard to explain how stiff one gets…
Day 34 Fiobal to Barbadelo – 11.05 km 5hrs 24mins – Reaching the end of the Road
I told you I was ready for a taxi yesterday when the oasis of Fiobal appeared. I had gone to sleep with great hopes that the rest would cure the problem and in the morning I would be fine. That’s how it usually happens isn’t it? Desafortunatemente not today! I was unable to walk without…
Day 33 O’Cebreiro to Fillobol 17.95 9hrs 10mins – Every Dog has its Day
I wanted to get to Triacastela. I wanted to walk there. But I was in pain and I thought it was all downhill. Thankfully I was wrong. Well kind of wrong. And I’m not sure I should be thankful about that. There were a significant number of uphills to begin with but nothing like the…
Day 32 Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro 12km 5.4 hours – Up into the clouds
What a wonderful way to start the day! Serenaded by the singing Germans as we wandered off into the dark again. The first few km’s were flat and easy but I had a reasonably good recollection of the walk (or should I say climb) for the next 8 kilometres or so. As soon as I…
Day 31 Cacabelos to Vega del Varce 26.69km 8hours 45 mins Ultreia Ultreia Onwards and Upwards!
We had a bit of a sleep in today because we thought there was a communal breakfast at 6:30. We were wrong! All of our friends left early nevertheless we still started our day in the dark. And I still had a problem with my hip and lower back but so far this only bothered…
Day 30 Molinaseca to Cacabelos 8hrs 50mins 22.8kms Over 4 weeks and 637km down (according to Brierley guide book)!
The descent yesterday had given me more than just memories. As soon as I strapped my pack on it hit me. I now had the privilege of back and hip pain! It was extreme. As soon as we left the albergue I felt the stabbing pain in my lower back and hip. This is not…
Day 29 Rabanal to Molinaseca 9hrs 27mins 21.94km A Rose amongst Thorns
The distance wasn’t huge today but I had a slight recollection of a high level of difficulty. We had stopped at El Acebo last time so I could use the biggest pool on the Camino (always too cold for my beloved unless its Queensland in the middle of summer!). This time we would descend to…
Day 28 Astorga to Rabanal 6hrs 54mins 21.22km – The Fräulein with the package!
Well after a great sleep in a real bed it was destined to be another good day wasn’t it? We left a little later than usual, a shorter day, it was a bit cooler, and we wanted our E75 euros worth at the nice hotel so we headed out past the Cathedral at 8am! It…
Day 27 San Martin to Astorga 26.28km 9hrs 40mins – Compleanos felice!
I’m sure you realise by now that the time given above is a door to door time and includes all breaks and everything in between. So a long day can either indicate a day of struggle, a lot of rest stops or a bit of site seeing and/or socialising. Every day is different but one…
Day 26 León to San Martin 27km 9hrs 30mins
Before I get to our travels today I must point out that the albergue Globetrotter was the worst sleep we never had! The bar opposite was open until 5.30am and the noise was literally at our bedroom window. There was also someone allowing patrons of the bar in and out so they could use our…
Day 25 León rest day
I’m not sure it is possible to convey the sheer joy of sleeping in. My only dilemma was that I was starving and had to go down to eat in the dining room. Of course this effort woke me and meant I couldn’t get back to sleep. My beloved snoozed away until 10am – just…
Day 24 Mansilla de Las Mulas to León 20.32 km 8hrs 20mins – “Only” 20 kilometres!
Everyone was saying it. It must be an easy day. “Only 20kms today”. Since when is a 20km walk to be preceded by the word “only”? The truth is though that 20km is “only” after walking 25kms plus. Besides I think it is the breaking point for many people. Beyond 20 the pain and exhaustion…
Day 23 Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas 27.65km 9hrs 40mins
Yep you guessed it – another early start after a pleasant night in a cupboard listening to the Brazilian snoring champions! Life is good! The positive of our albergue was that the hospitalario was up making coffee and breakfasts (read bread!) at 5. Also to cheer me up, while I was sipping coffee in the…
Day 22 Terradillos del los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino 24.48 km 9hrs – A challenge to the end!
Before arriving at Bercianos I vlogged to myself – I told myself to watch this if I ever want to do camino again. I shall mark it “In case of Camino Calling” and save it to my favourites! I have to admit this day was a struggle. We started early and headed out of town…
Day 21 Carrión to terrillos de templariars 28.13 km 10hrs 15 mins – A walk in the country
There was a great deal of excitement leaving the nunnery today. I don’t think I have ever seen so many people up so early. The Italians were up, the girls in the end two beds left at 4am, the Ukrainian James Bond look alike and his wife were up and so too were the singing…
Day 20 Fromista to Carrión de Los Condes- Get thee to the Nunnery! 21.8km 6.5hrs
Apologies for delays in posting. The wifi has been dreadful. Oh dear me! This ended up being one of the funniest nights ever. But let me start at the very beginning. After dinner last night we arrived back into the albergue before lockup time ready for a decent sleep given we were only in a…
Day 19 Castrojeriz to Frómista 26.77km 9hrs 9mins – A magical welcome to the Meseta
I want to be prophetic and share with everyone some words of wisdom that might help you on your way. But I am mere mortal. Anything I could share would be overshadowed by the wonder that greeted us to the plains of The Meseta! We started early again, we are champions! Actually we are frightened…
Day 18 Hornillos to Castrojeriz 21.18km 7hrs 10mins
We were up early today and out the door first in the albergue again. I had had my first breakfast in the albergue. They even had a toaster! So much for not eating bread – the choice was bread or no bread. I also had a cup of tea. I was ready and waiting patiently…
Day 17 Burgos to Hornillos de Camino 23.05km 6hrs 50mins – In search of a tree
Don’t forget to open this in WordPress and put a comment or click like so we know if you like keeping up with our journey ! We were in a nice hotel room last night – La Puebla – nice room nice staff and nice breakfast. Also up a bit late due to a farewell….
Day 16 Cardeñuela Riopico to Burgos 14.25km 4hrs 10mins – a rest day in Burgos
Rather than spend two nights in Burgos or somewhere else for a rest day, we had planned another short day which meant we needn’t arrive early because nothing would be opened anyway. We planned to have breakfast for a change and would still be there by lunch time. We had organised an American breakfast the…
Day 15 Villafranca monte de Oca to Cardeñuela Riopico 24.89km – 9hrs11mins -into the void!
This morning we left in the dark and we were the first to leave in the whole albergue. No wonder really, last night the choirmaster and I observed the comings and goings of everyone in the dormitory. There was not a person who walked past our beds at the entry door that wasn’t limping! Except…
Day 14 Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca 13.18 – 4hrs – Farewell Speedy
Today was going to be an easy day. Together with the Choirmaster we planned to reach the foot of another pass over a mountain range into Burgos. Last time we walked from Belorado to San Juan de Ortega and then to Burgos my feet were very angry with me. This time I at least wanted…
Day 13 Granon to Belorado 15.86km 5 hrs 9mins – Our rest day
There was breakfast from 5am in our albergue today which sounded perfect. Our hospitalario Josu was even up to prepare it for us. In reality it was bread and jam with a couple of cereals and coffee or tea. It wasn’t much but we weren’t going far and we could have second breakfast an hour…
Day 12 Azofra to granon – 23.17km 8hrs 5mins – The vegan who loved cheeses
This morning I woke very early with sore knees; what’s new you may ask – well the left one was quite swollen so I woke during the night and rubbed voltaren in it and put the mini beuren tens machine on it for a while. It actually worked and the swelling had gone by the…
Day 11 Navarette to Azofra 8 hrs 11mins 23.34kms – Rioja wine country – let the blisters begin!
Don’t worry! It’s a tiny little blister on my left big toe. It’s the sore knees that are more of a concern! We bought injinji toe socks for my beloved when we were in Pamplona and they seem to be working for him but my feet are different. You remember don’t you? I inherited my…
Day 10 Viana to Navarette 23.9km 9hrs 16mins – Farewell to our yoga guru!
It was going to be a sad day today as our Irish yoga guru was leaving us at Logrono. Nevertheless we were entering Rioja wine country and we were still in good company with Speedy Gonzalez (also known as the Brazilian diplomat) and the Irish Choirmaster. We did our usual early wake up and tried…
Day 9 Los Arcos to Viana 19 kms 6hrs 19mins – And then there were six!
My legs were on fire! But it was my knees that were going to feel it today. More of that later. We were coming closer to the day we would lose our Irish yoga guru because study and work back in Ireland were calling. We were all in high spirits though after having such a…
DAY 8 Estella to Los Arcos 8hrs 10mins 22.3 kms – the early bird and catching the worm 🐛
Even though we’d lost our Irish spy we were thrilled to be heading out in the dark to have a picnic with the Brazilian diplomat at the free wine fountain at Irachi. Trouble is, none of us bothered to check if it had a specific opening time. The assumption was that the monks had provided…
Day 7 Puente La Reina to Estella 7.45hrs 23.3km
Buenes Dias! Yay -we did it again. Up and out the door before sunrise – all three of us (or tree if your Irish). My beloved was unaware that we were on a time frame and had a secret rendezvous on the bridge at 5.45am. As many of the good albergues do, we found cereal…
Day 6 Pamplona to Puente la Reina 9hrs 26.7km
Before I start with todays post I want to let you know about a couple of other items I am pleased to have packed. I’m pretty sure I mentioned the sheeps wool the other day (fresh from the Nyngan farm I might add) but not sure that I praised the Leki hiking poles – they…
Day 5 Pamplona rest day
Just to keep you in the loop I thought I’d include this brief post. We ended up having a rest day in Pamplona as the cold or flu symptoms seemed to be hanging around me with aches and pains and fever and a bit of a runny nose. I decided to stay in bed until…
Day 4 Zubiri a Pamplona 22.41km 7hrs 41mins – Sweet memories to replace the painful ones
Today was interesting for a number of reasons – the people we would meet, the physical challenge and the distance we would cover yet again. Last night I had difficulty sleeping due to the not too distant fiesta music gently floating in through the window, combined with the general feeling of malaise associated with a…
Day 3 Hola Navarre Espana -Roncesvalles to Zubiri 8hrs 40 24.56km
8hrs 40mins 24.56km Eu15 each bed Eu12 dinner – Total Eu54 It was exciting leaving Roncesvalles this morning. It was dark, cool, there was a buzz in the air because many pilgrims actually start the journey here – In addition I was pain free! We passed our friends in hallways and bathrooms and visited the…
Day 2 One Perfect day we’ll go out walking 18.6 km 6.5hrs
Day 2 Orisson to Roncesvalles I will admit to warming up quite quickly after leaving Orisson but once we reached 1100m it is fair to say that the weather was pleasant. Cloud cover and altitude meant that the walk today was a vast improvement on yesterday. Both times I had walked this path previously the…
The End of the Transit
Just a quick post this time to catch you up on our arrival in Spain. We had a one night stop over in San Sebastián and another transit the next day to St Jean pied de port. A delayed flight meant we didn’t arrive in our hotel in San Sebastián until 7pm. We showered changed…
Camino Calling!
Aargh! How on earth could they be thinking about walking another 800km? Will he again accompany her on this slow walk across Spain? Will they finally learn to flamenco? Will the feet hold up? Isn’t one ruptured plantar fascia, a stress fracture or two and a moon boot enough? What on earth draws people back…
The Long Way Home – Paris and Beccles and London
In ten minutes we commence our descent into Sydney Airport. We have travelled a long way since leaving home in May. Not just in distance but in personal achievement. In doing things together. In celebrating being alive. I commenced this blog entry in London and wrote some more in Dubai then some more somewhere over…
Barcelona, Malta and back to London
Gaudie everywhere! It seems forever since we finished our camino. We (I) thought if we had spent all the money to get over here (Europe) we may as well make the most of it as the chances of heading back in the near future are pretty slim. Anyway budget required we continue for the…
Marrakech express back to Spain
Marrakesh Train Station I bought some Moroccan pastries to take with us – may have overdone it! In order to ensure the adventure continued we decided to catch the Marrakech express backwards to Tangier rather than waiting around airports for delayed flights. Whilst waiting at the train station we eventually figured out it too was…
After the party…. from Santiago to Finisterre
Well the first day after we arrived in Santiago started with a fantastic buffet breakfast at the Hotel and a quick trip up the hill to visit Morgan Morgan Chris and Tim. You remember the American students who we adopted after bumping into them in so many albergues and bars don’t you? I think we…
Day 48 Villamaior to Santiago de Compostela – 9.47 km to Saint James in the Field of Stars – At last!
Before reading this post it is important that you know how truly grateful we are to have had so many wishing us well and cheering us on – especially over the last few days. We are sure that there are many times when we could have pulled the plug and hopped on a bus and…
Day 47 Salceda to Vilamaior – 19.26km – 482 ascent 472 descent – A completely unnecessary day of heat and hills – what happened to the cool?
Just a few days ago I indicated to you that we were limiting our distances so we could enjoy the last few days and arrive in Santiago in one piece. I also indicated it was much easier now that the weather was cooler, the paths were easier, there was more shade. And then we left…
Day 46 Arzua to Salceda 12.2km – Finally – a walk in the park!
We are aiming to arrive Santiago this Friday. That means we don’t have to kill ourselves walking to get there. Finally we can actually enjoy the journey. We can leave late, stop for lunch, I can even drink wine on the way and still arrive in time to relax at the albergue. I have to…
Day 45 Melide to Arzua – 14.88 km 405 ascent 422 descent – Playing Spanish Roulette and learning Flamenco!
What a day! Just when we thought all the fun was over and our Camino was coming to an end we decided to do a short day and to send our packs again to ensure we arrive in Santiago in one piece (14.88km). Well at least to ensure my heel arrives in one piece! Things…
Day 44 Eirexe to Melide – 22km – A walk in the mist
“I am sitting in the mist listening to the cock crow. A few early morning hikers have left already. I can hardly see ahead. The mist has engulfed the village. It’s 7am and we have a long day ahead of us. Twenty two kilometres to our next stop at Melide. People from the town before…
Day 43 Portomarin to Eirexe 18.07km – All quiet on the Western Front
A late start meant we missed the crowds – it also meant we could meet a few stragglers like ourselves. People who were clearly not in a rush and happy to stop and have a coffee or a cold drink in between meals. I am sitting outside another albergue listening to Bonnie Tyler would you…
Day 42 Barbedelo to Portomarin – 19.65 km – 100km to go and the Hordes begin!
A quiet day. Not! We left Barbedelo at around 8:45 and missed saying goodbye to Shirley and Steve. We were at the 108km mark so in only 8km we would pass the 100km to go mark – yee ha! My feet were so happy to hear this that they sped up and we killed the…
Day 41 Tricastela to Barbadelo – 23.5km 769 descent – Bikes and reunions
We actually started early today. No more hot days for us. Mind you , the weather is much milder over this side of O’Cebreiro. The country is greener. The food is definitely tastier. The service so far seems better too. All in all things are looking up. We are getting closer to Santiago….
Day 40 O’Cebreiro to Triacastela – 21.86 descent 947m – Oh what a beautiful morning
What a beautiful way to wake up after all that heat! The village was literally in the clouds and we were loving it. We had breakfast up the hill and set off into Galicia. Rumour has it that they even play bagpipes here because they have very old Celtic roots! It was a nice quiet…
Day 39 Los Herrieras to O’Cebreiro – 9.19km ascent 679m Oh oh oh Cebereiro
“O’Cebreiro, don’t you cry for me I come from Los Herrieras with, and bandage on my knee!” Well, not really – just a bit of kinsiology tape actually. But I couldnt stop singing stupid songs in my head. We left a bit late knowing we weren’t going far and knowing it was a bit cooler….
Day 38 Villafranca to Las Herrerias 20.18km – 42 degrees over and out
Today we left late – actually normal by our standards – 9am. On the other side of town we stopped at the sign we were waiting for – 200km to Santiago – woo hoo! We were almost there. Well in Camino terms 200km is the downhill slide. Forget the fact that 90 percent of people…
Day 37 Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo – 23.31km – Feeling hot hot hot
It was going to be another hot day so we decided to leave early – by our standards anyway. So we left at 8am. Given that we had left early it didn’t seem necessary to rush so I stopped at another farmacia to see if they had strapping tape (it has now become a challenge)….
Day 35 – El Acebo to Ponferrada – 15.79km Ascent 184 Descent 760m – With hoards of students!
We actually left before someone this morning. Al from Kentucky as I recall – but he overtook us not far down the track. He had entertained me with his tale of not knowing how to open the door in the albergue room. He said “I have a masters degree and I cannot figure out how…
Day 34 Rabanel to El Acebo – 17.18km – 489m ascent 524 descent – A pool to end all pools
Ramon said goodbye to us this morning. He also asked for the Australian Flag for his flag garden. We were happy to donate and were the last to leave – what’s new? It’s nice not to feel rushed – actually the truth is I can barely walk to the bathroom in the morning at…
Day 33 Astorga to Rabanel – 21.04km You can call me Mary
My good friend Laura has asked me to include total distance travelled and I totally understand the interest there as we have been wondering too. I have tracked gps for each day with my phone – but I havent added it up. It requires arithmetic which is sadly lacking. I will one day find the…
Day 32 Leaving Hospital and going to Astorga – 21.04km – Leaving a new guru
This morning started late. We stayed around and at the last minute decided to send on our bags to Astorga as someone else already had theirs sitting there waiting. There was no point ruining our miraculous recovery straight away by lugging those things another 20k. We sat a bit longer and I had an…
Day 31 Leaving Jesus and going to Hospital – 15.5 km – Albergue Verde – where the grass is always greener
I am writing this post from the garden of Albergue Verde in Hospital Orbigo. Our host is playing the guitar in the living room as two of the others prepare food for tonights vegetarian meal. I have just had my legs and back massaged by Gael – a gifted Spanish masseuse who was trained mostly…
Day 30 Leon to Jesus’s place – Villar de Mazarife – 20km what a spectacular light show!
When I was younger my mother used to tell me I had my grandmothers feet. Not her own mother’s feet mind you, but the feet of dad’s mum. She must’ve had bad feet. Our grandmother on Dad’s side was a beautiful little Irish lady who was obviously very capable and had travelled to Australia by…
Day 28 and 29 Manzilla to Leon 21.2km
A couple of things about this blog have been bothering me lately. One is that I don’t have time to edit properly and there are still many spelling errors and typos (and grammatical problems) and, two is that we are not sharing the full experience as the wifi has been so bad (or nonexistent) in…
Day 27 El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mules 19.47km – Get your hands off my seat
As I started to write this post we were having a mid-hike break and I was sitting outside an albergue eating potato tortilla and sipping on the icy cold beer of my beloved. ZZ top were blaring La Grange out of the speakers. We had just walked almost 12 km across the Meseta without a…
Day 26 Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero 19.16 km – thats not a blister, this is a blister!
Leaving Sahagun was a pleasure because a) it was probably my least favourite stopover on the Camino and b) the Real Camino track was both well maintained and almost entirely covered in shade for the whole 19 km. It was also quiet and easy as it followed a local road parallel to a freeway but…
Day 25 Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahugun 21.98km – past halfway and going strong
Today was another cold day. Maybe we were just straight out lucky because the places that were meant to be the hottest and therefore hardest were actually a couple of the coldest days. The wind blowing across that Meseta is both spine chilling and refreshing when you are walking 20 k’s or so. We bid…
Day 22 Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino 19.96km
I had a grand plan today – I wanted to stay at the Hermitage of St Nicholas where there was no electricity and the Italian Monks washed your feet before a candlelit dinner. Husband on the other hand, had a distinct dislike of the idea of some stranger washing his feet and, even though we…
Day 21 Hornillas to Castrojeriz 22.31km I dont want to brag but…..
This day started well with our host driving us back to Hornillas. Enroute I was having a very in depth conversation with the lady in Spanish and my beloved husband was impressed. I learned that she was from Logrono and her husband was from around here. I complemented her staff Erica and Rodrigo from Brazil…
day 20 Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino 21.8 km
Damn it whole blogs are disappearing with bad wifi. None the less thank you all for reading and staying in touch – all likes and comments on WordPress are greatly appreciated and keep me motivated to keep writing and sharing a few photos. Frankly it keeps us both motivated to keep walking. Please excuse me…
Days 18 and 19 Burgos
Burgos is a place where a lot of pilgrims have a day off. For us it was a place to have two days off. Originally we planned only two nights (which meant one day rest) but the weather report suggested rain for both days and it felt like a cold winters day at home where…
Day 17 San Juan de Ortega to Burgos 27.11km
Leaving San Jaun de Ortega We finally decided it was necessary to send our packs on for the day. It cost 5 euro each and the van picks them up wherever you stay and then drops them off in the next big stop at wherever you tell it to. My leg was still swollen…
Belarado to San Juan de Ortega Day 17 25.66km 5.55am to 4.15pm
Left Belorado under moonlight knowing that we’ve been killing ourselves in the heat of the day. I put compeed on both feet in the hope of comfort – actually my blister was looking alot better but I thought the ankle was swollen and it may have been twisted through compensating for the blister. About 4…
Santo Domingo Calzado to Belgrado 22.28km Day 15 and Day 16
We tried to start early again today, headed out of town around 9.30am! Oh well all the serious hikers had gone at 4.30 or 5am and there was no way we going to catch up anyway. It was actually quite chilly so not such a bad time to leave anyway. Husband pulled his socks up…
Azofra to Santo Domingo 15.94km Day 14
After a night in such a great albergue the day is bound to be great. Azofra is an interesting town for two reasons really, one is the municipal albergue with the twin rooms and the foot pool and, the other is the tractors that drive down the main street. The bar and restaurant has seating…
Ventosa to Azofra 17.4 km Day 13 Walking with a spring in my step
I was actually as surprised as you will likely be when I tell you my beloved would not carry my pack again. Yes I know, we all thought it was the beginning of something big, however he awoke with a sore back as well as sore feet. He did however agree to take a couple…
Logrono to Ventosa (20.8km) The day my legs said “NO MORE!) day 12
When facetiming home this morning my brother in law asked how far we would walk today. I told him that if I walk anywhere the way my legs feel I may never walk again! So why on earth did we hit the 20km mark? We set off from Logrono too late as usual (9.30am) as…
Viana to Logrono 12 km A semi rest day (again) day 11
I know if we do 10km days all the way it will take us 80 days to reach Santiago. But, I tell you if we do 25 km days all the way we may not make it to Santiago. Full credit to those who can do more (and my beloved may well be one of…
Los Arcos to Viana (18kms) – my Mexican Yoda may not be real! Day 10
Leaving Los Arcos I realised that I need to do something more for the blister that had started on the big toe of my left foot (the one that wasnt operated on). Funnily enough, this blister had only occurred since I put new inserts in my boots. I had then put a bandaid and padding…
Running with the Bulls – Estella to Los arcos 24 km (long way round) day 9
It’s only supposed to be about 20kms between Estella and Los arcos but we preferred to walk that little bit extra today because it was nice and hot and frankly we weren’t sore enough yesterday. Not sure if anyone would believe that but would you believe we missed the free wine fountain and had to…
L town (Lorca to Estella) 12 km day 8
I know, it seems like we are fading now, only doing 12k’s. But frankly Estella was a necessary stop for two reasons – The first is that the albergue I had sent that darn bag to that we needed to post on to Santiago had lost it for a few hours. I spent these hours…
Uterga to the L town (Lorca) 21 kms day 7
At the pilgrims dinner in Uterga there was some discussion about where to go the next day. One of the Canadians was heading to the C town – so named because none of us could remember what it was called from one sentence to the next – probably because of the amount of red wine…
Pamplona – Uterga – 18.71km day 6 And we were supposed to be over the worst of it!
Sleep was well deserved and we were up early (well kind of) for an 8am departure. We didnt quite make 8am and wandered out of town at around 8.40am heading up to alto del perdon where the wrought iron pilgrim parade lines up across the mountain. This was a hard day. I know you probably…
Roncenvalles to Zubiri 22.38km day 3- losing our vocabulary
We felt great today – after all we had completed the two hardest days of the whole Camino – or so we thought! It was 8 kilometres from St Jean to Orisson and 17 kilometres over the mountains to Ronsenvalles. We had crossed the Pyrenees from Spain to France – we had walked over the…
Saint Jean Pied de Port to Orisson 8km and to Roncenvalles 19.43 days 1 and 2
For those who have seen the movie “The Way” it seems quite romantic to arrive at the start of the camino by the old train with all the other pilgrims. Unfortunately the train isn’t running from Bayonne to St Jean at the moment. Apparently there was some landslide or something last November and repair work…
London town
Lets just say carrying backpacks through vast airports such as those in Dubai and London Heathrow is good practice for our 800 kilometre hike! We also carried our packs from Paddington Station through the streets that used to be so familiar to us when we lived in Bayswater twenty five years ago. Fortunately we were…
Ab Initio – from the beginning
You will know by now that a trip overseas for us should not be classified as a holiday, rather it should be considered an adventure. Furthermore you should know that this particular trip has special significance to us. Firstly, I had decided some time ago that in order to celebrate my 50th birthday I would…
To Flamenco or not to Flamenco? That is the question.
You may or may not recall that I dragged my beloved to a tango lesson in Buenos Aires and he was shaking in his shoes. It should be known that even after hiking dangerous inclines in the freezing winds of Patagonia, and diving with sea lions near to the orca hunting ground of Peninsula…
Reflections on the Journey Home
This morning wasnt too stressful surprisingly – the airport in Santiago is certainly not as chaotic as Juliaca up in the Andes or Lima in Peru and we were flying Qantas which was departing on time unlike almost all the Lan and Aerolineas flights we had taken. We managed a visit to the American Airlines…
Torres del Paine
I actually thought that Torres del Paine meant towers of pain in spanish. I was however mistaken. It seems the indigenous folk down this way use the word paine (or something like it) to describe the colour blue. So there you go another fact that you probably didnt need or want to know – I…
Let the journey begin
The word chaotic would not be too strong to describe our departure to Latin America. Awake at 5am, bags packed, out the door at 5.30am – or was that 6am? – actually it was 6.15am which was pushing it when we had get petrol and be on a plane to Sydney that was departing at…
Time to Tango
I’ve told my beloved that we are going to learn to tango in Buenos Aires and I know he’s shaking in his shoes! But that’s not all we are going to do – after a week in Santiago and surrounds we plan to glamp it up and sleep in fully decked out tents for our…