Day 19 Castrojeriz to Frómista 26.77km 9hrs 9mins – A magical welcome to the Meseta

I want to be prophetic and share with everyone some words of wisdom that might help you on your way. But I am mere mortal. Anything I could share would be overshadowed by the wonder that greeted us to the plains of The Meseta!

We started early again, we are champions! Actually we are frightened of walking in the heat! Well I am anyway and my beloved has learned the joy of watching the stars as we pass the last street light and hit the darkness and watching the breaking of the dawn as we continue on the way. But today was different. I was actually a bit sad that I was crossing that hill out of Casterojeriz and I wasn’t going to see the expansive views we had seen last time across the Meseta.

As we closed the door to our hotel we met Jack with his family outside and headed up the incline with them in the dark. It was nowhere near as scary as coming over the pass from Villafranca Montes de Oca and realistically it was over fairly quickly because we had company but for me it was hard work. We were all glad to reach the summit before the sun hit and Jack and his family headed off as my beloved waited for me to grab a few shots and catch my breath.

We walked a little way to the decline down the other side and commenced our decent on the newly surfaced path. Still the sky was dark and the air was biting. I felt the top of my pack and realised it was damp and cold too. As we reached the bottom of the decline the sky started to lighten and the distance seemed to indicate a storm was brewing.

But as the sun rose the vision that greeted us was beyond compare. Honestly if you are walking the camino in the summer, even if its only once, get up early and watch the sun rise. Especially on the Meseta!

After this magical greeting we arrived in the rain at San Nicolas where the Italian Monks wash your feet when you arrive to stay the night. Last time we were too early and they had gone shopping! Today we were early enough that they were cleaning up breakfast and some of the peregrinos were still in bed! One of the Italians offered me a coffee and showed me around. No power, candlelight only but wonderful!

After this we stopped for first breakfast a little late and managed to have something similar to bacon and eggs! It wasn’t too bad actually so we didnt even need second breakfast.

We then dropped in to Boadilla del Camino and said hello to Eduardo who featured on a special birthday greeting to our sons friend three years ago. Happy belated other birthday to Alani!

The sommelier dropped in again and was dubious about our willingness to move on to Fromista. Another 5 or 6 k’s on. I had rested my feet and was hot to trot! Off we went up the path beside one of the oldest canals you will ever see.

We arrived at Fromista and checked in to the Municipal but it was expensive at 9 euro each! No matter we were in a small room with two bunks and both grabbed the bottom bunks. Little were we to know that the Brazilian national snoring champion and his runner up were to move in while we were out socialising!

For our evening meal we hooked up with a bunch of people from Ireland Germany, Spain, Ireland, America and Australia! A couple we had met at Orisson at the beginning and had hardly seen since. A doctor a lawyer a teacher a student an electrician a psychiatric nurse a landscape contractor and a teacher and, of course, the sommelier! What a wonderful mix! We must have checked out all 15 restaurants in town before we found it like an oasis in the dark! Donar Mayor! Wonderful food, wonderful company and wonderful night thanks to our Spanish companions and the wonderful service from the staff!

Finally a local directs us to Dona Mayor

First restaurant we walked out of

The sommelier

Buen Camino and Hasta luego!

5 Comments Add yours

  1. Michelle Hall says:

    So beautiful!! Oh I love the Meseta ❤️

    Liked by 1 person

  2. TOM JESSUP says:

    You are both going well on this trip. Great keep it up ,,, We are back home after being in some very remote areas. no tv, no phone, no radio, no internet etc and are now catching up on your adventures.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. texancheri says:

    Stunning photos! You guys are doing so good each day!! Love the posts

    Liked by 1 person

  4. lelbylelbs says:

    Glorious! Oh darlings – you must feel so alive… wonderful.. Hx


  5. joan de shan says:

    Hello Gail and Thomas

    This was the last post we have received – are you okay? Perhaps your communication reception is a bit lousy where you are but I must admit to being concerned. It would be nice to hear from you if you can get a chance.




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