Day 1 Sparking joy on the camino

I was awake before they turned the music on at beillari this time. The Dutch girl was also up early and we both tiptoed around getting ourselves ready while the two young spanish men who had arrived late slept soundly. I became their worst nightmare once the lights in the hall came on. I was…

Day 40 Santiago a Santiago 4.65 kms – When the Going Gets Tough!

Well, actually, yesterday was tough. Today was a beautiful day – again! We had enjoyed the company of the young ones for a while at the lovely hotel the Choirmaster had booked for us. We had slept in the most comfortable bed we had seen since leaving home. And, ironically, I couldn’t use it but…

Day 26 León to San Martin 27km 9hrs 30mins

Before I get to our travels today I must point out that the albergue Globetrotter was the worst sleep we never had! The bar opposite was open until 5.30am and the noise was literally at our bedroom window. There was also someone allowing patrons of the bar in and out so they could use our…

Day 25 León rest day

I’m not sure it is possible to convey the sheer joy of sleeping in. My only dilemma was that I was starving and had to go down to eat in the dining room. Of course this effort woke me and meant I couldn’t get back to sleep. My beloved snoozed away until 10am – just…

Day 18 Hornillos to Castrojeriz 21.18km 7hrs 10mins

We were up early today and out the door first in the albergue again. I had had my first breakfast in the albergue. They even had a toaster! So much for not eating bread – the choice was bread or no bread. I also had a cup of tea. I was ready and waiting patiently…

Day 13 Granon to Belorado 15.86km 5 hrs 9mins – Our rest day

There was breakfast from 5am in our albergue today which sounded perfect. Our hospitalario Josu was even up to prepare it for us. In reality it was bread and jam with a couple of cereals and coffee or tea. It wasn’t much but we weren’t going far and we could have second breakfast an hour…

Day 7 Puente La Reina to Estella 7.45hrs 23.3km

Buenes Dias! Yay -we did it again. Up and out the door before sunrise – all three of us (or tree if your Irish). My beloved was unaware that we were on a time frame and had a secret rendezvous on the bridge at 5.45am. As many of the good albergues do, we found cereal…

Day 6 Pamplona to Puente la Reina 9hrs 26.7km

Before I start with todays post I want to let you know about a couple of other items I am pleased to have packed. I’m pretty sure I mentioned the sheeps wool the other day (fresh from the Nyngan farm I might add) but not sure that I praised the Leki hiking poles – they…

Day 5 Pamplona rest day

Just to keep you in the loop I thought I’d include this brief post. We ended up having a rest day in Pamplona as the cold or flu symptoms seemed to be hanging around me with aches and pains and fever and a bit of a runny nose. I decided to stay in bed until…

Day 3 Hola Navarre Espana -Roncesvalles to Zubiri 8hrs 40 24.56km

8hrs 40mins 24.56km Eu15 each bed Eu12 dinner – Total Eu54 It was exciting leaving Roncesvalles this morning. It was dark, cool, there was a buzz in the air because many pilgrims actually start the journey here – In addition I was pain free! We passed our friends in hallways and bathrooms and visited the…

Day 2 One Perfect day we’ll go out walking 18.6 km 6.5hrs

Day 2 Orisson to Roncesvalles I will admit to warming up quite quickly after leaving Orisson but once we reached 1100m it is fair to say that the weather was pleasant. Cloud cover and altitude meant that the walk today was a vast improvement on yesterday. Both times I had walked this path previously the…

The End of the Transit

Just a quick post this time to catch you up on our arrival in Spain. We had a one night stop over in San Sebastián and another transit the next day to St Jean pied de port. A delayed flight meant we didn’t arrive in our hotel in San Sebastián until 7pm. We showered changed…

The Long Way Home – Paris and Beccles and London

In ten minutes we commence our descent into Sydney Airport. We have travelled a long way since leaving home in May. Not just in distance but in personal achievement. In doing things together. In celebrating being alive. I commenced this blog entry in London and wrote some more in Dubai then some more somewhere over…

Barcelona, Malta and back to London

Gaudie everywhere!   It seems forever since we finished our camino. We (I) thought if we had spent all the money to get over here (Europe) we may as well make the most of it as the chances of heading back in the near future are pretty slim. Anyway budget required we continue for the…

Marrakech express back to Spain

Marrakesh Train Station I bought some Moroccan pastries to take with us – may have overdone it! In order to ensure the adventure continued we decided to catch the Marrakech express backwards to Tangier rather than waiting around airports for delayed flights. Whilst waiting at the train station we eventually figured out it too was…

Still Wandering – Onward to Portugal Morocco

      It would be easy to assume that an 800km Camino can fit within the 30 or 40 days that some of the guidebooks suggest. After all – some people do it in 20 or even less and quite a number of our friends certainly did it in those time limits. But, after…

After the party…. from Santiago to Finisterre

Well the first day after we arrived in Santiago started with a fantastic buffet breakfast at the Hotel and a quick trip up the hill to visit Morgan Morgan Chris and Tim. You remember the American students who we adopted after bumping into them in so many albergues and bars don’t you? I think we…

Day 44 Eirexe to Melide – 22km – A walk in the mist

“I am sitting in the mist listening to the cock crow. A few early morning hikers have left already. I can hardly see ahead. The mist has engulfed the village. It’s 7am and we have a long day ahead of us. Twenty two kilometres to our next stop at Melide. People from the town before…

Day 33 Astorga to Rabanel – 21.04km You can call me Mary

My good friend Laura has asked me to include total distance travelled and I totally understand the interest there as we have been wondering too. I have tracked gps for each day with my phone – but I havent added it up. It requires arithmetic which is sadly lacking. I will one day find the…

Day 28 and 29 Manzilla to Leon 21.2km

A couple of things about this blog have been bothering me lately. One is that I don’t have time to edit properly and there are still many spelling errors and typos (and grammatical problems) and, two is that we are not sharing the full experience as the wifi has been so bad (or nonexistent) in…

Day 24 Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza 17.5km

We awoke in our nice warm room and had breakfast downstairs before heading off. We decided that this was going to be another day where we would send on our pack. We had heard that the Meseta was one of the worse places to walk due to the lack of services between towns and due…

Day 22 Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino 19.96km

I had a grand plan today – I wanted to stay at the Hermitage of St Nicholas where there was no electricity and the Italian Monks washed your feet before a candlelit dinner. Husband on the other hand, had a distinct dislike of the idea of some stranger washing his feet and, even though we…

Day 21 Hornillas to Castrojeriz 22.31km I dont want to brag but…..

This day started well with our host driving us back to Hornillas. Enroute I was having a very in depth conversation with the lady in Spanish and my beloved husband was impressed. I learned that she was from Logrono and her husband was from around here. I complemented her staff Erica and Rodrigo from Brazil…

day 20 Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino 21.8 km

Damn it whole blogs are disappearing with bad wifi. None the less thank you all for reading and staying in touch – all likes and comments on WordPress are greatly appreciated and keep me motivated to keep writing and sharing a few photos. Frankly it keeps us both motivated to keep walking. Please excuse me…

Days 18 and 19 Burgos

Burgos is a place where a lot of pilgrims have a day off. For us it was a place to have two days off. Originally we planned only two nights (which meant one day rest) but the weather report suggested rain for both days and it felt like a cold winters day at home where…

Day 17 San Juan de Ortega to Burgos 27.11km

Leaving San Jaun de Ortega   We finally decided it was necessary to send our packs on for the day. It cost 5 euro each and the van picks them up wherever you stay and then drops them off in the next big stop at wherever you tell it to. My leg was still swollen…

Belarado to San Juan de Ortega Day 17 25.66km 5.55am to 4.15pm

Left Belorado under moonlight knowing that we’ve been killing ourselves in the heat of the day. I put compeed on both feet in the hope of comfort – actually my blister was looking alot better but I thought the ankle was swollen and it may have been twisted through compensating for the blister. About 4…

Santo Domingo Calzado to Belgrado 22.28km Day 15 and Day 16

We tried to start early again today, headed out of town around 9.30am! Oh well all the serious hikers had gone at 4.30 or 5am and there was no way we going to catch up anyway. It was actually quite chilly so not such a bad time to leave anyway. Husband pulled his socks up…

Azofra to Santo Domingo 15.94km Day 14

After a night in such a great albergue the day is bound to be great. Azofra is an interesting town for two reasons really, one is the municipal albergue with the twin rooms and the foot pool and, the other is the tractors that drive down the main street. The bar and restaurant has seating…

L town (Lorca to Estella) 12 km day 8

I know, it seems like we are fading now, only doing 12k’s. But frankly Estella was a necessary stop for two reasons – The first is that the albergue I had sent that darn bag to that we needed to post on to Santiago had lost it for a few hours. I spent these hours…

Uterga to the L town (Lorca) 21 kms day 7

At the pilgrims dinner in Uterga there was some discussion about where to go the next day. One of the Canadians was heading to the C town – so named because none of us could remember what it was called from one sentence to the next – probably because of the amount of red wine…

Roncenvalles to Zubiri 22.38km day 3- losing our vocabulary

We felt great today – after all we had completed the two hardest days of the whole Camino – or so we thought! It was 8 kilometres from St Jean to Orisson and 17 kilometres over the mountains to Ronsenvalles. We had crossed the Pyrenees from Spain to France – we had walked over the…

London town

Lets just say carrying backpacks through vast airports such as those in Dubai and London Heathrow is good practice for our 800 kilometre hike! We also carried our packs from Paddington Station through the streets that used to be so familiar to us when we lived in Bayswater twenty five years ago. Fortunately we were…

Ab Initio – from the beginning

You will know by now that a trip overseas for us should not be classified as a holiday, rather it should be considered an adventure. Furthermore you should know that this particular trip has special significance to us. Firstly, I had decided some time ago that in order to celebrate my 50th birthday I would…

To Flamenco or not to Flamenco? That is the question.

You may or may not recall that I dragged my beloved to a tango lesson in Buenos Aires and he was shaking in his shoes.   It should be known that even after hiking dangerous inclines in the freezing winds of Patagonia, and diving with sea lions near to the orca hunting ground of Peninsula…

Reflections on the Journey Home

This morning wasnt too stressful surprisingly – the airport in Santiago is certainly not as chaotic as Juliaca up in the Andes or Lima in Peru and we were flying Qantas which was departing on time unlike almost all the Lan and Aerolineas flights we had taken. We managed a visit to the American Airlines…

Back to Glasgow!

Sitting in our air conditioned room in Santiago I have to say thank heavens we are not in the hot box we started out in here at Santiago a lifetime ago at the beginning of our trip. Last night was another long night flying from Puno to Lima and then, and after being delayed in…

Lake Titikaka and the Altiplano

We are sitting in a plane high above the Andes heading back to Lima and then to Santiago in readiness for our final flight home. We are both reflecting on how on earth the Spanish found their way to Cusco and beyond – these Mountains make Australia's Great Dividing Range look like a walk in…

Macchu Piccu Our Way!

Maybe it was the way he tangoed in Buenos Aires – you know – with style and ease, never to be forgotten – I dont know but on the train on our way back from Macchu Piccu a young English girl leaned across the aisle and said she had seen us at tango. I told…

Inca this and Inca that

We know we have a lot of reading to do when we get home (just quietly if you have decided to follow this blog you may have a lot of reading to do too!), but after spending a few days in Peru we are emotionally scarred by the atrocities committed by the Spanish and yet…

And onward to Peru

We eventually touched down in Lima just before midnight and  we were met at the airport by a lovely young university student who was working as an English guide while he studied music – the driver couldnt speak English so we needed two people to take us to our hotel apparantly. We had just been…

Iguazu and Iguacu Falls

We have just spent two nights in Iguazu (the Argentinian side) and were pleased with the recommendation of Grandad and Joan to stay in the only hotel actually inside the national park as the town itself was definitely nothing more than a pile of hotels and taxi stands at least twenty minutes away. Sadly my…

Reflections on Argentina

Well, as you know we arrived at the worlds Southerly most city before flying half way to Buenos Aires and visiting Puerto Madryn. There we felt like the only foreign travellers as the peak season was over and there were no ships in port lending the 2 thousand or so day visitors to the place….

Colonia del Sacramento Uruguay

Colonia, as it is known to the locals, is a lovely little UNESCO listed town on the shores of the Rio del la Plata opposite buenos aires. Apart from some modern buildings there is a very old city with early portuguese architecture and also has the oldest church in Uruguay. My friend Ximena recommended a…

Lord of the Tango

We were picked up early from our hotel and after a zig zag ride in the mini bus through the city, we were herded up the stairs into a dance space that looked like it had been operating for over 100 years. (I later found out it was built in 1895). There were probably 30…

Visitamos Buenos Aires

Okay he did it – he learnt to tango – and he was hot! But more on that later. So we left Puerto Madryn for Buenos Aires with my beloved feeling a little less than ordinary. By the time we boarded the plane he was threatening to be sick. I was deeply concerned as he…

Our sea lion trip – Was it the calm before the storm?

I do hope not. But since we disembarked from our sea lion trip the wind has steadily increased throughout the day. I have also received a message from the airline saying our flight was leaving earlier than planned. Fortunatemente (my second most favourite spanish word) this will be our last Aerolineas flight as the rest…