Day 12 After the rain Navarette to Azofra 24.65km 7.5 hours

The morning was actually colder than I expected. I expected the humidity to hang around and warm the place up after rain like at home. Not here! It was cold enough to have gloves, beanie and three layers on for almost the whole day – at least almost in to Najera.

There was plenty of evidence of the impact of the rain. I had read the Brierly guide book where he said the the mud in this area sticks to you like a leech! Aargh. We all know what I think of leeches! Could be the main reason I walk in spain rather than Oz!

For today I was heading into Najera where I had volunteered at the Albergue in 2019. I had heard it had been renovated and was keen to see it for myself but also keen to head on to Azofra because the municipal there was quite comfortable and it would mean I could make Grañon the next day without killing my feet.

Anyway the nice Dutch lady who had passed me a few times over the previous days fell in step with me for quite a while on the way into Najera where she was staying and we had a lovely chat and even visited a beehive! Wonder what the hungry beekeeper thought of it?

I know it wasn’t a beehive and you know it wasn’t a beehive but let’s just keep that to ourselves if the hungry beekeeper has other thoughts okay? I recall it was a remodel of something from Rolands time and my beloved husband posed inside it on our first camino. Clearly I need to revisit some of these places to absorb some of this history!

Anyway dropped into the now 48 bed albergue in Najera. It was 90 or so when I was there and we washed sheets each day. Now pilgrims get the standard paper sheets and pillow cases and there is room to breath! The lady who now runs it was there at the time and numerous workers undertaking maintenance and cleaning. Definitely a much nicer place for pilgrims now!

Previously two extra rows of bunks filled the middle space!

I had a light lunch with the lovely lady from the Nederlands and headed straight back out on the way to Azofra. Saw a very cute dog and missed my Trevor quite a bit!

It did seem a bit longer than I anticipated to get to Azofra but I did not arrive crippled and in need of a medic as I recall should have been called on my first visit there!

I shared a room this time with a retired German Software Developer who had walked the camino two times as well. She insisted she was the slowest person on the camino. I said “No I am the slowest person on the camino.” Then the German Architect informed us he had seen many other people that were even slower people on the Camino! Felt like a German episode of Little Britain!

The architect gave me a quick instruction on building material and methodology in the area which I actually found very interesting. Especially knowing the mud sticks to you like a leech (I experienced it on my boots heading into town).

We all went up to the local bar where the pilgrim menu was 18 euro tonight and we sat with the Three French Sisters (it was actually two sisters and one friend but I can never remember which one is the friend because they all act like sisters so lets just call them the French sisters)

Primero of vegetable stew – very nice
Segundo of entrecot steak very nice and tender

Off to Granon tomorrow for the traditional sleep on floor experience! Had to enjoy a little luxury 🙂

Buenas noches!

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