The nice lady had assured us the breakfast buffet was worth the 10 euro so we decided to partake as the possibility of finding food was getting lower as places closed for the season or had no staff. In addition my hope for a sunrise was dashed again with clouds everywhere.

The breakfast was great. If it was a 5 star hotel we would have been disappointed – but this is the camino and it was a genuine treat. Bacon and eggs, fruit pastries, cereal, tea, coffee, juice and a rotating toast maker with cold meat and baby cheeses. (Actually it was sliced cheeses but never let the truth get in the way of a good story okay). The sky seemed to be clearing as we started walking and we spotted a few things that seemed interesting but we had no idea what they were.

Ledigos was the first stop with nothing, well only one place opened actually. So we stopped briefly for a coffee only and headed through knowing another village was in another 3 kilometres or so.

I also found another nice tree not too far out of town.

One of the Italian Chefs passed us not too far in and I was terrified. Would they be cooking again at the next albergue we stayed at?

Terridillos de los Templarios was the next village and we were desperate for a bano after having a quick coffee in the previous town. We saw a few pilgrims sitting around in the beer garden of an albergue and I ducked in prepared to buy something but was able to use the bathroom without seeing a staff member.

The place had a familiar feel to it and I recalled spending a night there with a gang of people in 2018 where we shared a room with the sommelier only to discover he was a world champion snorer. You never really know someone until you’ve shared a dorm with them do you? He was a nice fellow by the way and was able to gather a bunch of people each night to share a spanish cooked meal – much better than the Italians at Grañon let me tell you!

There were a lot of dead sun flowers around here also. It’s interesting walking in the different seasons. In spring flowers are everywhere – particularly poppies. In autumn I get excited if I see a window box of colour! Anyway we walked on again without really having a break here either.

We also went through Moratinos and eventually found a lovely little picnic area that wasn’t ruined by those who came before us! We each had a long seat and sat and ate our mandarins with our shoes off and feet up. I know I didnt mention feet yesterday but I tell you the long straight stretch was not a kind path!

Anyway we enjoyed the solitude and peace and quiet for a very short period of time when out of nowhere an American Farmer with bone conducting earphones stormed in yelling at us down the path! There was a tsunami coming, he was starving, and he needed a seat. I gave him my half blackened banana. He sat next to the lady from Atlanta and was happy then. But he informed us he was moving quickly as a Tsunami was coming! He had been told two Korean tour groups had combined into one super troup and it was booking out multiple albergues in its path. He had to get ahead. Then a Canadian expat Korean caught up with him and also loudly exclaimed the horror behind us. We need to move ahead. They are coming!

I’m sure we would be equally mortified if such a large tour group from anywhere was coming but apparently Koreans have been exceptionally interested in the camino after a couple of tv series on the Camino have been shown recently.

Anyway that ruined our quiet little rest stop! So we donned our packs and headed on down the track again – we needed to get ahead too. No 4.30am wake ups for us again!

We strolled into San Nicholas and thought we would do the right thing and go to the second cafe as the first one was full. An Irish couple were just leaving and I asked if they had seen the beer garden inside as there was on the sign and the chairs out front were nothing like the picture. “We didnt stay here you know!” Was the only answer we got.

We went inside and were told the chef was not working today so no food. The beer garden was empty. They told us to go back to the first bar if we wanted to eat. So we did.

There the barman was lovely and served us a plate of salad and a plate of chips with ketchup! Unfortunately my tinto de verano was too strong. I couldn’t drink it. He very kindly offered to replace it and I requested a Kas Limon instead. Much more refreshing sin wine!

While I was waiting to talk to him a woman with a very strange accent came rushing in saying she could give him an Australian $10 note and it was worth 15 Euro! I wish! I said “No it’s not” and she quickly said “Don’t worry!” I saw her two very large companions and decided to stay out of it. The barman could check. They could be mafia or con artists. But it did disturb me that Australia was involved and she clearly was not Australian. They drove away in a very large Audi. I am sure the bar must’ve had a good markup so hopefully it didnt break the bank.

As the day progressed I also had an increasing need for tissues. Each morning I have needed them as usual but today was different. At least I would have a private room tonight at the Monastery in Sahagun. We had also heard there were another few days of tormentas and rain coming. (Tormentas are storms apparently – not the fictional characters from Harry Potter but seems they may have been the inspiration!)

After a very very very long day we arrived at Albergue De La Santa Cruz in Sahagun. I was near exhaustion and Im sure the lady from Atlanta wasn’t feeling too crash hot either! We had decided to skip the hermits house that marked the half way mark and we were pleasantly surprised when the Canadian who liked the sun informed us we could walk up a very small hill to another church and obtain a certificate confirming we had made it half way! It’s actually over half way for us because we had started in France but was a record of our journey nonetheless. So when we had finished at the supermercado we headed up there and paid 3 euro each for our certificate and another euro or two for a cylinder to keep it in.

So dinner at this albergue is hosted by the Marist people running the place – a Marist Priest from Vanuatu, a ley Marist from Brazil, a host of other volunteers and another couple of priests down the back. They were all very helpful and caring however we were too late to participate in any of the pilgrim services they had organised other than the dinner.

We were asked to bring something to share and they would provide some soup. I was starving and it seemed everyone was bringing wine or fruit so I bought a couple of Pizzas to heat up and a lettuce and some tomato’s and the Lady from Atlanta brought some hummous and other savoury items. A plate of potato crisps was placed in front of me but I also managed to grab a piece of pizza before it was sent down the table. It was a lovely idea and a great experience but a little lacking in substance and I was still very hungry after this “meal”. Especially after such a long day.

We were asked to be quiet after 10 as the Nuns that own the place live upstairs. It was almost quiet except a very very very loud man from the US of A sat in the corridor outside my room calling home. He yelled at his family for at least 15 minutes. Bet they’re glad he’s over here yelling for a change!

Anyway I could open the window again so I was happy about that and they provided a clean sheet also which was a change from the paper ones.

I had resolved to catch the train with the Lady from Atlanta into Leon on the morrow. There was more rain coming and I was not really in peak condition. A night in a real hotel was long overdue! The need for tissues was also increasing!

Buenas noches