So I woke early and headed to the kitchen as I had started coughing and didn’t want to disturb anyone any more. I was thrilled to see a toaster and some thinly sliced bread and vegemite and butter on the table. I made myself a cup of tea and ate some yoghurt and muesli and almost felt like I was at home. It was a good day for vegemite on toast and tea in particular. I had hoped this darn head cold would disappear after all this time. I had tested negative to covid and thought it was just a bit of nuisance frankly.

Anyway I headed out the door and up the road towards o’Cebreiro. The two American ladies in the beds next to me were heading up on horses today but they were still getting ready when I left.

As I walked on the cough seemed to be getting worse and I stopped at the first farmacia I came across. With a mix of Spanglish and sign language I walked out with a bottle of cough medicine and immediately had my first dose outside the door. I immediately felt relief and headed onwards towards Las Herrerias.

On the way there I was drawn to a little albergue in a town I’d never paid any attention to. I went inside to be welcomed by a warm fireplace, fur seating and candlelight’s throughout. I called out and no one came but headed to the bathroom anyway. When I came out the Hospitalera was there and offered breakfast or drink. I took a green tea with herbs and sat mesmerised by the fire and felt instantly better as I sipped my tea. I paid my 1 euro and headed out thinking I needed to remember this place for future recommendations.

I eventually reached Las Herrerias and saw the horses ready for my neighbours. I sat and ate second breakfast in readiness for the steep climb and saw the ladies arrive. I followed them out of town and kept pace until they started heading up. My legs were no match for these powerful four legged animals but there was no way I was riding one. The cough medicine had done its trick and I was able to make it up each turn without sounding like I was dying.

Given that I had booked into the albergue La
Escuela and laguna, 2kms down from O’Cebreiro I was happy I was having a short day! Once I made it there the lovely spanish girl I had met weeks ago in Viana arrived and, despite the fact that there was a little misunderstanding in relation to windows and heaters with two American ladies it was a lovely stay and a very comfortable albergue.

I had my first Crema de Ruoja courtesy of my Spanish friend and this calmed my cough and warmed my soul! Better than Bailey’s and great for this freezing cold weather!

Buenas Noches!