Day 35 Portomarin to Palas de rei 27.56 9.5 hours

Today started wet and cold and we were some of the first people to head out of town and down the stairs in the dark with head torches. We discussed the way with a Japanese woman as we reached the bottom and a local pointed us to the right and over another bridge where we found the arrows. We headed up a hill that went up up up and we stopped half way and removed a layer as we had warmed up quite a bit after half an hour of up. As day broke we stayed wet and cold and kept our rain jackets on despite the fact we were putting in some kilometres.

The students started passing us in groups along with many of the Sarria starters we had met or seen yesterday. I also spotted a lady with an actual Disney rain poncho!

There were a few places to stop and grab a bite however once we had cooled down each time it was necessary to get going again to keep warm. No idea what the temperature was but it was cold and I even used gloves and beanie along with my three layers under the rain jacket. It was supposed to be 25 km but my GPS again added for the door to door transit.

It was a long day and because it kept raining it was difficult to just sit on the side of the trail for 5 minutes here and there so the only stops were in bars that were open and filled with other pilgrims. I used my umbrella on and off and was glad I had it again.

We eventually landed at Palas de Reis and found our albergue up another hill and then up some stairs! I quickly grabbed a snap of the stone building we had stayed in last time where we were given the basement room. It was late again so no time for relaxation when washing needed to be done and food needed to be found.

We found the lavandaria on the top floor (so up more stairs). I set it for a short cycle and went back up to put it in the dryer just as a young spanish man decided to stop the cycle! He had done the same thing to his groups washing and had loaded the dryer with sopping wet cotton clothing! It was never going to dry – and neither was ours if it wasn’t spun! I put an extra euro in the washing machine and started the spin only cycle and engaged in a very difficult conversation trying to explain the problem. Thankfully his friend came up and spoke English and apologised profusely for his idiocy! (Not sure thats exactly what she had said but something similar Im sure!). So he kindly removed the sopping load and allowed me to put our small and newly spun load in to dry for 15 minutes. Hiking gear is quick dry for a reason – their high density cotton track pants and other things were going to take all night even if they were spun.

Eventually we made our way out and headed to the only restaurant that appeared to be open and we were escorted upstairs where a bunch of other pilgrims were chomping away at their dinner. We ate lasagne with salad and a small serve of garlic bread and had a quick desert before heading home. The place was run by two Brits and although the food wasn’t bad the serving sizes were a little smaller than the spanish people provide and the price a little higher than a pilgrim meal.

Anyway we headed back to our beds satisfied and exhausted and I passed out rather quickly after a 28 km day!

I was only going to do a shorter day on the morrow – the antibiotics had done their trick but I still needed some rest in between the extremes!

Buenas noches

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