I had a vision of staying at another donativo albergue at Ribadiso. I had seen pilgrims lazing about on the grass with feet in the river when I had passed it before and I had heard it was a lovely place to stop for the night. So I planned only to walk 10 to 13 kilometres and stay there. Given that many places were already closed for the season however I had a tentative booking in an albergue in Arzua which was only a couple of kilometres further on.

So we started our day a little after 7 as the Lady from Atlanta was going to be covering over 25 kilometres today. I had no wish to go that far but we decided to walk the first couple of hours together anyway. It was nice and cool and not wet so we made good time in the morning and even saw an open tienda selling fruit first thing.

There were hardly any pilgrims on the trail and it was a peaceful journey for the most part.

We arrived at Ribadiso super early so I decided to go on to Arzua rather than sitting around waiting for a few hours until the albergue opened.

We passed a couple of Canadian friends the Lady from Atlanta had met when doing the alternative route out of Villafranca. They were heading to the same town as she was. I started pondering whether I should walk 28 kilometres.

When we finally climbed the hill and arrived in Arzua the extreme traffic along the way encouraged me to continue walking.

I strangely felt very strong and didnt have too many aches and pains. For the last couple of hours we saw only two other pilgrims and it felt like everyone else had gone home. All the bars were closed and we were desperate for a cold drink. As luck would have it the only place opened was Tia Dolores. The place where all the beer bottles made the walls and the zambarinos were perfect! But sadly no food this time only tinto de verano and coke. We recharged and headed out for the last couple of kilometres into Salceda.

The older couple who owned the pension welcomed us with google translate and were very helpful in doing our washing and lending me scissors! I precut as many bits and pieces as I thought I might need over the next few days.

The Canadian friends arrived downstairs to eat as their albergue had nothing. I discovered they had spent a summer in Coffs Harbour in the 1980’s and even spent New Year’s Eve dancing in a tent on the beach. I couldn’t believe it. So now they shall be known as the Canadians who loved Coffs Harbour.

Anyway we enjoyed another of our favourite meals on the camino. Salad, Zamboriñas and this time, lamb cutlets! Definitely made a good choice to walk on – good food and good company! The perfect end to a long day. Now the only choice is whether I walk the same distance as the lady from Atlanta tomorrow or find another off stage albergue to spend an extra night. Only time will tell.

Buenas noches.