So after arriving in Saint Jean I wandered the well worn cobblestone streets admiring the historic buildings and searching for food (especially baby cheeses). I entertained myself with a few photographs while awaiting checkin time and the arrival of my friend Michelle .

After my rest stop in Paris I had walked enough that I also thought, in preparation for the next day, I should investigate every possible massage offering in Saint Jean. The owner of a cheese shop even walked me to a masseur which was unfortunately closed until Tuesday. Saint Jean is the beginning of the Camino de Santiago for some but day 40 of the Chemin for others coming down from Le Puy en Velay. I finally accepted defeat as massage services are not available on weekends. As you can imagine food reemerged as a priority so I eventually settled on a Creperie which was clearly a very French way to relax my aching muscles. It was also where I bid farewell to my Parisian blisters Jacques and Pierre while I tested both savoury and sweet crepes. Amazing medicine!

My next joy was the steep climb up to the pilgrim shop to pick up my new hiking poles and water bladder in readiness for the morrow. I checked in to Beilari after meeting a lovely fellow Aussie sitting patiently on the doorstep. Michelle arrived in due course and we wandered the streets this time seeking a seat out of the rain to celebrate our catchup with a wine. It was a challenge as the rain had settled in for the afternoon and the inside seating areas were closed or full! We had a brief window of clarity and one glass of wine under the eaves of a bar before returning to our albergue also known as a gite in this neck of the woods.

We had an interesting evening meal meeting others from distant parts of the world with a generous sprinkling of Aussies and Americans. We all adjourned to our sleeping areas as the lights went out and we reached for our earplugs as the cacophony of snoring began.

Day 1 Up Up Up and away

I awoke feeling rejuvenated and ready to go however the start to the day may amuse you. This stay in Beilari commenced with the unexpected annoyance requiring all backpacks to be left downstairs and outside – ostensibly to prevent bed bugs from being transported to the rooms. I wish them well however given experience in property management and as a volunteer hospitalara I am dubious as to how this protocol might succeed when I know these little friends can travel quite comfortably in everything inside a bag which in this case was subsequently taken into the dormitories anyway.

I had packed my bag in the dark in Paris as the hotel room had lighting limited to bedside lamps and a television (if turned on) hence my annoyance at this new requirement as my expectation that I could organise my pack in the albergue in the evening with new water bladder etc and be ready for the start of the adventure before sliding off to sleep was shattered. Instead I slept disorganised and commenced the day in disarray piling my things into plastic buckets and fighting for space on the terrace to organise my world. Eventually we headed out the gate just before 8 am to comply with the required checkout time only to discover I had forgotten to put my boots on! A slight inconvenience as I then had to de backpack and start again. Very disappointing to have to de backpack so early in the day 🙂

Thankfully the weather gods were kind and the scenery was beautiful as we headed up to Orisson. Although it was cold we warmed up well as the journey was still up up up as it had always been. Upon arrival at Orisson I had a quick shower (because the token limits you to a quick shower and certainly not because I wanted a quick shower) I then presented myself upstairs for a snack before dinner to be told by my watch that I was too cold! I decided to slink back to the dormitory and cocoon myself in my sleeping bag before hearing the sound of warm air nearby.

The lovely Taiwanese girl who had almost overheated on her way up the mountain was blow drying her hair and I was immediately lining up for her assistance. Wet hair and mountain air do not make for a perfect temperature and I was grateful for the luxury.

We ate and heard the stories of why all our fellow pilgrims were on this journey. Many to honour lost loved ones, celebrate birthdays or life events or just to see if they could do it.. Whilst I did suggest my reason was a reconnaissance mission I also suggested I’m interested in knowing if it’s possible to finish without injury. Well only time will tell. So far so good so tomorrow is onwards and upwards. Ultreia Suseia