The walk out of Zubiri is memorable for the opportunity to see a magnesite mine – something one doesn’t usually just stumble across in every day life, and also memorable for some lovely tracks through wooded areas along a river.

After the previous few days of significant ups and downs we did assume the walk would not be filled with surprises but as usual, we were surprised. Well it wasn’t too surprising just a little surprising downhill challenge – again! At least it was paved to some extent. How is it we don’t remember these surprises from our previous visits? Is it because the trauma is all too much and it must be blocked from our consciousness?

There were still some beautiful rural scenes and a very busy stop for second breakfast where all 3000 people on the camino that day seemed to think it was the best place to stop.

We had decided to fast track into Pamplona and skip the footpath walking from the outskirts of the city as Michelle was leaving on the morrow and we wanted to enjoy Pamplona’s pinchos and the interesting side of the old city. We were also staying on the other side of town.

So we waited for a bus at a rudimentary bus stop but had no luck. Eventually we asked a shop keeper to call a taxi and within minutes we were at our hostel and wandering the city.

I had still been craving croquettes, which are a specialty in this area, and I was thrilled when we stumbled across a croquetteria! Who would have guessed that was a thing!

After walking an extra twenty kilometres or so in and around the city I managed to secure a booking for a massage with an osteopath which resulted in much relief for my aching muscles although I did feel she was very angry with me for not stretching enough each day. She was also lecturing me on the next days climb to alto del perdon which she is insisted was muy fuerte! I just didnt have the vocabulary to explain I was not doing it in one hit but had decided to stay half way up the hill, well three quarters really, in order to catch the sunrise at the top.

We managed to visit the lookout over the French gate and Janine eventually arrived after a long walk and joined us for some pinchos in one of the open bars. There was no running of the bulls and no summer party goers blocking the streets and it seemed a very quiet night in Pamplona. Even the bar and restaurant that sat out behind the cathedral with a view over the city was closed. I did buy a second pair of toe socks from Camino Teca store but after that we restocked some snack food and cash from the ATM’s and headed back to the albergue to sleep.