I can’t pretend I wasn’t filled with enthusiasm at the thought of actually visiting the free wine fountain while it was open. You may recall a group of us headed out at dawn in 2018 with cheese and bread and jamon with the hope of having a true pilgrim breakfast at the fountain only to discover it wasn’t open. Today was going to be different! I slept in just long enough to ensure my arrival coincided with its opening hours.

It was a chilly 6C when I passed the farmacia in the square outside the albergue. Wandering through the old streets after that I am pretty sure it was actually colder and may have even been 4 degrees!

I passed a petrol station and took a quick snap to compare prices at home – which of course I wont do because es muy complicado with walking and checking the exchange rates! You can do it now if you like.

I passed the blacksmith shop to find his fire burning and him hammering away just before arriving at the fountain.

There the Durham lass who had been seated outside the albergue yesterday was sitting waiting patiently for her friend who had left her poles in Estella and run back to get them. Not a bad spot to sit really. Not a good thing to forget either.

The wine was flowing freely and I was fortunate to secure a snap of the moment of truth. The funny thing is the bloody tap wouldn’t turn off and I ended up with far too much wine for my breakfast. We all marvelled at the bubbles and I commended the vintner on a very tasty drop thank you very much. I didnt recall it being too pleasant in 2015 but today’s vintage was superb. It was unfortunate I had to tip it out because there was no way I was going 20kms or more with that much red wine in my belly!

So sensible me headed up the hill (yes another stupid up and down day) slowly peeling off layers as the day progressed. I was heading to Los Arcos and Casa de Abuela and another night of peace in a single room.

Along the way Mrs Durham was taking a rest stop perplexed as to the location of the caravan selling drinks. I can attest to there now being two missing caravans. Must be low season for caravaners selling drinks I think!

As the day progressed I was again filled with excitement as I realised a very big hypotenuse was coming up.

But I couldn’t take it because the field had been plowed and was far too rough to be a short cut this time. Some nice Korean lady offered to take my photo and I accepted as I thought it poignant to remember the day I didnt walk the hypotenuse into Los Arcos.

Then to cheer me up a shepherd was herding his flock of sheep near the end of the hypotenuse near where the adder jumped out on my first camino. I was mesmerised with the way the sheep moved and perplexed as to what he was saying to his dogs.

I eventually strolled into Los arcos looking forward to some peace and quiet however a tour bus of Korean Perigrinos had landed at the same lodgings. Nothing against Korean pilgrims but my worst nightmare was to become a reality on the morrow when every single one of them must’ve got up at 4.30 to start packing their bags for a few hours! Mama Mia – I’m going back to the bunk beds!

Pilgrim dinner at my lodgings was interesting however I was disappointed with the bar owner in the square upping the price of a beer and a snack when I failed to notice the first time. My second and last purchase was reduced significantly when I said muy Caro!

And so I decided to get up early on the morrow and head to Viana and the municipal albergue which sits beside the ruins to a magnificent old cathedral.

Buenas noches