Day 44 Eirexe to Melide – 22km – A walk in the mist

“I am sitting in the mist listening to the cock crow. A few early morning hikers have left already. I can hardly see ahead. The mist has engulfed the village. It’s 7am and we have a long day ahead of us. Twenty two kilometres to our next stop at Melide. People from the town before…

Day 33 Astorga to Rabanel – 21.04km You can call me Mary

My good friend Laura has asked me to include total distance travelled and I totally understand the interest there as we have been wondering too. I have tracked gps for each day with my phone – but I havent added it up. It requires arithmetic which is sadly lacking. I will one day find the…

Day 28 and 29 Manzilla to Leon 21.2km

A couple of things about this blog have been bothering me lately. One is that I don’t have time to edit properly and there are still many spelling errors and typos (and grammatical problems) and, two is that we are not sharing the full experience as the wifi has been so bad (or nonexistent) in…

Day 24 Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza 17.5km

We awoke in our nice warm room and had breakfast downstairs before heading off. We decided that this was going to be another day where we would send on our pack. We had heard that the Meseta was one of the worse places to walk due to the lack of services between towns and due…

Day 22 Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino 19.96km

I had a grand plan today – I wanted to stay at the Hermitage of St Nicholas where there was no electricity and the Italian Monks washed your feet before a candlelit dinner. Husband on the other hand, had a distinct dislike of the idea of some stranger washing his feet and, even though we…

Day 21 Hornillas to Castrojeriz 22.31km I dont want to brag but…..

This day started well with our host driving us back to Hornillas. Enroute I was having a very in depth conversation with the lady in Spanish and my beloved husband was impressed. I learned that she was from Logrono and her husband was from around here. I complemented her staff Erica and Rodrigo from Brazil…

day 20 Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino 21.8 km

Damn it whole blogs are disappearing with bad wifi. None the less thank you all for reading and staying in touch – all likes and comments on WordPress are greatly appreciated and keep me motivated to keep writing and sharing a few photos. Frankly it keeps us both motivated to keep walking. Please excuse me…

Days 18 and 19 Burgos

Burgos is a place where a lot of pilgrims have a day off. For us it was a place to have two days off. Originally we planned only two nights (which meant one day rest) but the weather report suggested rain for both days and it felt like a cold winters day at home where…

Day 17 San Juan de Ortega to Burgos 27.11km

Leaving San Jaun de Ortega   We finally decided it was necessary to send our packs on for the day. It cost 5 euro each and the van picks them up wherever you stay and then drops them off in the next big stop at wherever you tell it to. My leg was still swollen…

Belarado to San Juan de Ortega Day 17 25.66km 5.55am to 4.15pm

Left Belorado under moonlight knowing that we’ve been killing ourselves in the heat of the day. I put compeed on both feet in the hope of comfort – actually my blister was looking alot better but I thought the ankle was swollen and it may have been twisted through compensating for the blister. About 4…

Santo Domingo Calzado to Belgrado 22.28km Day 15 and Day 16

We tried to start early again today, headed out of town around 9.30am! Oh well all the serious hikers had gone at 4.30 or 5am and there was no way we going to catch up anyway. It was actually quite chilly so not such a bad time to leave anyway. Husband pulled his socks up…

Azofra to Santo Domingo 15.94km Day 14

After a night in such a great albergue the day is bound to be great. Azofra is an interesting town for two reasons really, one is the municipal albergue with the twin rooms and the foot pool and, the other is the tractors that drive down the main street. The bar and restaurant has seating…

L town (Lorca to Estella) 12 km day 8

I know, it seems like we are fading now, only doing 12k’s. But frankly Estella was a necessary stop for two reasons – The first is that the albergue I had sent that darn bag to that we needed to post on to Santiago had lost it for a few hours. I spent these hours…

Uterga to the L town (Lorca) 21 kms day 7

At the pilgrims dinner in Uterga there was some discussion about where to go the next day. One of the Canadians was heading to the C town – so named because none of us could remember what it was called from one sentence to the next – probably because of the amount of red wine…

Roncenvalles to Zubiri 22.38km day 3- losing our vocabulary

We felt great today – after all we had completed the two hardest days of the whole Camino – or so we thought! It was 8 kilometres from St Jean to Orisson and 17 kilometres over the mountains to Ronsenvalles. We had crossed the Pyrenees from Spain to France – we had walked over the…

London town

Lets just say carrying backpacks through vast airports such as those in Dubai and London Heathrow is good practice for our 800 kilometre hike! We also carried our packs from Paddington Station through the streets that used to be so familiar to us when we lived in Bayswater twenty five years ago. Fortunately we were…

Ab Initio – from the beginning

You will know by now that a trip overseas for us should not be classified as a holiday, rather it should be considered an adventure. Furthermore you should know that this particular trip has special significance to us. Firstly, I had decided some time ago that in order to celebrate my 50th birthday I would…

To Flamenco or not to Flamenco? That is the question.

You may or may not recall that I dragged my beloved to a tango lesson in Buenos Aires and he was shaking in his shoes.   It should be known that even after hiking dangerous inclines in the freezing winds of Patagonia, and diving with sea lions near to the orca hunting ground of Peninsula…

Reflections on the Journey Home

This morning wasnt too stressful surprisingly – the airport in Santiago is certainly not as chaotic as Juliaca up in the Andes or Lima in Peru and we were flying Qantas which was departing on time unlike almost all the Lan and Aerolineas flights we had taken. We managed a visit to the American Airlines…

Back to Glasgow!

Sitting in our air conditioned room in Santiago I have to say thank heavens we are not in the hot box we started out in here at Santiago a lifetime ago at the beginning of our trip. Last night was another long night flying from Puno to Lima and then, and after being delayed in…

Lake Titikaka and the Altiplano

We are sitting in a plane high above the Andes heading back to Lima and then to Santiago in readiness for our final flight home. We are both reflecting on how on earth the Spanish found their way to Cusco and beyond – these Mountains make Australia's Great Dividing Range look like a walk in…

Macchu Piccu Our Way!

Maybe it was the way he tangoed in Buenos Aires – you know – with style and ease, never to be forgotten – I dont know but on the train on our way back from Macchu Piccu a young English girl leaned across the aisle and said she had seen us at tango. I told…

Inca this and Inca that

We know we have a lot of reading to do when we get home (just quietly if you have decided to follow this blog you may have a lot of reading to do too!), but after spending a few days in Peru we are emotionally scarred by the atrocities committed by the Spanish and yet…

And onward to Peru

We eventually touched down in Lima just before midnight and ¬†we were met at the airport by a lovely young university student who was working as an English guide while he studied music – the driver couldnt speak English so we needed two people to take us to our hotel apparantly. We had just been…

Iguazu and Iguacu Falls

We have just spent two nights in Iguazu (the Argentinian side) and were pleased with the recommendation of Grandad and Joan to stay in the only hotel actually inside the national park as the town itself was definitely nothing more than a pile of hotels and taxi stands at least twenty minutes away. Sadly my…

Reflections on Argentina

Well, as you know we arrived at the worlds Southerly most city before flying half way to Buenos Aires and visiting Puerto Madryn. There we felt like the only foreign travellers as the peak season was over and there were no ships in port lending the 2 thousand or so day visitors to the place….

Colonia del Sacramento Uruguay

Colonia, as it is known to the locals, is a lovely little UNESCO listed town on the shores of the Rio del la Plata opposite buenos aires. Apart from some modern buildings there is a very old city with early portuguese architecture and also has the oldest church in Uruguay. My friend Ximena recommended a…

Lord of the Tango

We were picked up early from our hotel and after a zig zag ride in the mini bus through the city, we were herded up the stairs into a dance space that looked like it had been operating for over 100 years. (I later found out it was built in 1895). There were probably 30…

Visitamos Buenos Aires

Okay he did it – he learnt to tango – and he was hot! But more on that later. So we left Puerto Madryn for Buenos Aires with my beloved feeling a little less than ordinary. By the time we boarded the plane he was threatening to be sick. I was deeply concerned as he…

Our sea lion trip – Was it the calm before the storm?

I do hope not. But since we disembarked from our sea lion trip the wind has steadily increased throughout the day. I have also received a message from the airline saying our flight was leaving earlier than planned. Fortunatemente (my second most favourite spanish word) this will be our last Aerolineas flight as the rest…

Dont Cry for me Argentina!

The truth is I never left Chile! Yes that’s right, I think I’m having Chile withdrawals. We disembarked in Ushuaia yesterday morning and, due to Aerolineas schedule changes, had to fly out the same day to Trelew. There we thought we’d get to look around a bit but the transfer to Puerto Madryn was almost…

An elbow on the table

I awoke very early this morning. Too darn early in fact. The boat was a rockin and it wasnt because of loud music and dancing. We were nearing Cape Horn and I was filled with fear and excitement all at once. I wanted to catch the sun rise at the end of the earth and…

A return to civilisation at the end of the world!

I guess we are going to learn a lot more about the history of Patagonia when we catch the boat down to Cape Horn. For now though I should tell you that between Torres Del Paine and Punta Arenas there are lots of sheep and the land stretches forever – I guess the hills in…

And onward to the Towers of Pain!

Firstly let me apologise for the many typo’s and errors in spelling and or grammar. Whilst I am usually somewhat of a perfectionist in regards to correspondence etc I am typing this on a bluetooth keyboard often late at night or on a moving bus so I just want to get the blogs out there…

Torres del Paine

I actually thought that Torres del Paine meant towers of pain in spanish. I was however mistaken. It seems the indigenous folk down this way use the word paine (or something like it) to describe the colour blue. So there you go another fact that you probably didnt need or want to know – I…

Leaving the land that time forgot

The bus trip out of Vina and Val (as the locals like to call them) was like a journey out of a movie set. At 7 in the morning the the sky was still dark and the city was cloaked in fog. I could imagine how in days of old the pirates would have slowly…

Bucea Quintay

Well this was a fun morning. My beloved was about to have his first diving experience in South America and we had to catch the local bus to the departure point in Valparaiso for a collectiva – a share taxi to Quintay. He was in high stress mode as nothing was happening on time (read…

The land that time forgot

To give context to this city I consider this visit was a visit to a land that time forgot. Once one of if not the biggest port in South America, back in the days when ships sailed around Cape Horn to get to and from the Atlantic, and Pirates with one leg and canons ruled…

Hola to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar

There was not a hope in hell that we were going to spend another night in the heat of Santiago! So we hired a driver and headed to the coast. My cousin had informed me that the mountain range between Santiago and the coast was as high as Mount Kosciousko – Australia's highest mountain and…

Santiago on foot!

So another day in Santiago saw us walking, walking, walking. We caught the subway to Plaza de Armas, the point from where all distances are measured in Chile. We circled around this main square and through one of the museums and then headed for the mercedo central (thought I should test out security on my…

City of Saint James

So far my on again off again years of Spanish language lessons has held me in good stead – I can say please, thankyou, I dont understand, and “como se dice in espanol?” We have managed to buy food, get directions, catch a taxi and even mind a young lady’s lunch for a short time…

Buen Vienido a Santiago

Well, after leaving the confines or our Premium Economy seating with a constant flow of air and attention, we paid our welcome fee and, following a distressing few minutes where we cursed ourselves for running so late that our bags had missed the plane, we located our luggage slowly passing around on a conveyor belt…

Let the journey begin

The word chaotic would not be too strong to describe our departure to Latin America. Awake at 5am, bags packed, out the door at 5.30am – or was that 6am? – actually it was 6.15am which was pushing it when we had get petrol and be on a plane to Sydney that was departing at…

Time to Tango

I’ve told my beloved that we are going to learn to tango in Buenos Aires and I know he’s shaking in his shoes! But that’s not all we are going to do – after a week in Santiago and surrounds we plan to glamp it up and sleep in fully decked out tents for our…