It was an early start but then only the early bird catches the worm – or the sun as it were. One American, a Cornish man, a Dutch man and us two Aussies headed out the door at 6.40am precisely. We had intended to leave at 6.30am however the old lady who wasn’t supposed to be opening la tienda decided to open la tienda. Henceforth it was important to purchase a cafe con leche.

So off we went up up up in the dark with head torches on and stars shining above. The Alto Del Perdon or hill of pardon is where the path of the wind crosses the path of the stars and taking an early start gave us the opportunity to experience this. Apparently we should get some sort of pardon also! Thankfully the clouds stayed away enough to ensure success for our early morning start.

So of course what goes up must come down – and then up again of course! And dare I say down again etc etc.

We passed Urterga and eventually arrived in Puenta la Reina just in time for a touch of rain. Not too much just enough to encourage a decent break and some cafe con leche for me. We were heading on to Cirauqui so didnt manage to stay for the local running of the bulls which was happening over the weekend. No pasanada – I have a feeling another fiesta will happen somewhere along the way as Spain seems to know how to celebrate everything.

Well I’m not going to exaggerate here but the 7.6km from Puenta to Cirauqui was no simple feat. Damned if that Michelin guide didnt suggest an undulating up down up through Manueru. I knew there would be an up at the end as some of the nicest camino photos have been taken during spring time leading into Cirauqui but this wasn’t spring so I wasn’t sure how it would look. Anyway heading out of Puenta was a hill so steep I felt I would tumble down backwards if I stopped. It was treacherous to me and probably the first time I had actually felt terrified on the camino. Perhaps last time I hadn’t noticed the steepness as I recall leaving Puenta in the dark . I did stop complaining when I later heard that Pocahontas had come up behind another lady at speed and frightened the bejesus out of her with his two horses. I had to assume Jacques was still heading to Santiago and I later saw evidence of his journey.

There were also some great little tunnels to pass through but the best was yet to come tomorrow enroute to Estella.

Anyway we arrived at a very unique little albergue run by Juan who had walked the camino.

Had a night with only 11 pilgrims in the room with one English woman lucky enough to sleep under a chandelier far away from the coughing Italian!

Buenas noches!