Well this day started well with me walking to the main road intersection to wait for the bus to catch forward to Nasbinals before walking about 10km for the day. Madame F was also going to catch the same bus so we would meet again for the day. I met a couple of nice people as I waited for the ride and made an instant friend with a young french man who had just left his chaperone that morning!

When we were dropped in Nasbinals we saw a cow and then walked up to the church for a stamp and couple of photos. I also saw my first backpacking cat at the cow at the start of town.

At the church I realised I had left my credential behind at the Gite. It would be okay if I had mistakenly placed it in the bag I was sending on this day so calling the Gite for this confirmation was the goal. If it was not in my room then it would be in my bag so a simple phone call seemed the logical thing to do. Unfortunately it also had a couple of other things with it.

I tried desperately to call the Gite and eventually settled on an email to see if they could locate it in my room. If not I would’ve assumed i had packed it in my send on bag and would find it later today. We then went to a boulangerie for some supplies and sat in a cafe waiting for a response.

The German lady from the night before sat next to us with some equipment for dealing with a painful blister. I saw her pull out a knife the likes of which crocodile Dundee would approve. I said “you’re not going to pierce it with that are you?” She said “no” and wasn’t lying. So I enjoyed the most beautiful looking coffee I had been presented with so far. That was lucky! It kept me occupied.

I saw some blood out of the corner of my eye. Madame F passed the German woman a dressing to place on her foot. After the German woman left I was informed of the extremity of her operation! She had literally cut the blister off!!!! She didnt lie! She wasn’t going to pierce it! We were convinced she would be found in agony further down the trail or would be rushed to hospital with blood poisoning in the near future!! My coffee was fantastique!

After receiving a cryptic french message (but still no phone call from the Gite), Madame F and I conferred! It was time to catch a taxi back to the Gite and pickup the credential (this is the little book you get stamped along the way.) For me it is memorabilia , for others it is a record of their penance ! Maybe it’s my penance too!

The taxi driver was kind and upon arrival at the Gite the English speaking boy informed us it was in the baggage that had already left and he couldn’t understand why we had returned. He had seen the credential in the bag which had been sent on and the woman was apparently meant to tell us. I informed him I also had my friends credentials not just mine and the message his partner had sent suggested we return to the gite and she would see us soon.We showed him the cryptic message and he informed us the owner doesn’t like to answer the phone! The taxi driver returned us to nasbinals without the credential and reduced the fare. He was a good man.

The Chilean arrived and the Mermaids from the ecological pool and a host of others. Most were staying in Nasbinals the night. Not us! We were going to cross to Aubrac in the hot afternoon sun thanks to my mistake!

So off we went to Aubrac! It was hot, it was beautiful, and it was hilly! We had packed a picnic and looked forward to reaching the top to sit and relax for a few minutes, or an hour, or whatever! The trouble was each time we thought we were at the top we were going up again.

We walked through numerous gates and the ground was dry and rocky in parts.

Strangely people were frequently walking backwards and eventually we discovered we were also in part of the aubrac loop or tour or something!

Our biggest concern was the cows apparently. You know the ones that are moved up for summer and down for winter – I think there is a parade called transhumance or something – apparently they are murderous vengeful cows :). We were to stay alert as each summer reports of cows attacking pilgrims and donkeys and especially bike riders (who are particularly annoying apparently) were common knowledge. I was dubious.

Among the numerous species I had grown alert to, Cows had never been on my list of animals to fear when crossing a paddock. A bull maybe! But a cow? Anyway I laughed and walked on but in the back of my mind I wondered when a cow would jump out from somewhere and yell On Guard holding a sword ready to attack. it didnt happen. The cows were happy chewing their cud. Although they did look a bit thirsty as the land was so dry. I don’t think they like eating people. Obviously if I interfered with them or their babies it might be different. Maybe I would suddenly look like dinner. The taxi driver said they may take them to the low lands earlier this year.

Anyway we finally found a picnic spot with a magnificent view and some shade. We were at an altitude now of around 1400m! At least it was a feeling of success for the many ups!

Not long after our picnic a man informed us we were close to Aubrac. We were soon to discover he had come down the hill. We were still going up!

Anyway we eventually rolled into town. This town only had about 5 people living in it! The buildings were all beautiful (except the tower that the pilgrims stay in apparently) – after walking up the perilous tower in Saugues I had no wish to spend the night in a windowless tower with the bathroom at the bottom of the stairs!

We had a cold drink at the Annex. It had a beautiful interior!

Thankfully Zebra from Najera had visited before and recommended the Colonie! Parfait! We each had our own rooms which were extremely spacious and very unique. Every corner was filled with antiques and bric a brac – the place was special.

I located my credential — thank heavens!

We ate well in a large barn like annexe and slept well after arranging for another bus for the morrow. Madame F was heading home from St Chely however I was heading onwards to meet my friends and was jumping to Saint Come D’olt with another swimming pool Bon nui