Today was clearly a special day. And I guess you are clear that the hours I record include the rest stops, photo breaks, conversation stops, visits to nature, and everything door to door. The time does not include the initial time spent getting ready or waiting for others but suffice to say I was up…
Category: Camino De Santiago
Day 38 So only one day out from Santiago? Salceda to Lavacolla 18.8 km 6 hours 40 mins
I was vaguely undecided. I’m not quite sure what vaguely undecided means. But that was me this morning. I again decided to leave when the Lady from Atlanta left but I didnt want to prebook and she had a booking in Lavacola. I was still eager to see what was happening in other towns and…
Day 37 A supposedly short stroll – Melide to Salceda 28km 9hours 40 minutes
I had a vision of staying at another donativo albergue at Ribadiso. I had seen pilgrims lazing about on the grass with feet in the river when I had passed it before and I had heard it was a lovely place to stop for the night. So I planned only to walk 10 to 13…
Day 36 Palas de Rais to Melide 15.52 km 6 Hours
We were glad to see the other side of Palas de Rais. Yesterday was long, cold and wet and the town was really not appealing in any way. Again we headed out in the rain and the dark but it was 7.30 and it seemed to get lighter soon after we left the town. One…
Day 35 Portomarin to Palas de rei 27.56 9.5 hours
Today started wet and cold and we were some of the first people to head out of town and down the stairs in the dark with head torches. We discussed the way with a Japanese woman as we reached the bottom and a local pointed us to the right and over another bridge where we…
Day 34 Joining the Crowd – Sarria to Portomarin 25.39km 9.5 hours
We headed out in the dark as usual that darn sun just keeps getting later. Up up up the stairs and up the hill. We stopped for a quick breakfast and kept going up the hill again. At the top we stopped for a couple of photos before heading down the dark path. We almost…
Day 33 Samos to Sarria
I assure you there is nothing worse when you are using a fold up keyboard and a phone to blog than accidentally deleting your draft! It has happened more than once! Anyway I have fallen behind a little so thought I’d do a quick catchup on a couple of days as I am getting very…
Day 32 A stroll in the woods – Triacastela to Samos 11km 4 hours
So we headed out for a short 11km walk to Samos today. We both looked forward to a wander through the trees and some fresh country air with a visit to a new village. The trail was beautiful and green with a few seemingly abandoned villages enroute. The weather was clear but cold. Samos is…
Day 31 A steep climb (or two) and a howl in the wild! Laguna to Triacastela 15km 6 hours
So I left Laguna in the early hours hoping to reach O’Cebreiro for a sunrise. Always a bit uncertain at the moment especially given the freezing wind and rain last night. I looked back as I headed up and saw the glow from the small village I had left. So it was only 2kms up…
Day 30 Another up up up – Trabadelo to almost O’Cebreiro 19.6km 7.5 hours
So I woke early and headed to the kitchen as I had started coughing and didn’t want to disturb anyone any more. I was thrilled to see a toaster and some thinly sliced bread and vegemite and butter on the table. I made myself a cup of tea and ate some yoghurt and muesli and…
Day 29 Onto Casa Susi Ponferrada to Trabadelo 10.15km 3 hours
I had planned to jump forward to Cacabelos today and hoped to have the energy to take the alternate route past a beautiful old house I wanted to photograph. The truth is I still wasn’t filled with energy and still required too many tissues throughout the day. Anyway I headed out in the dark as…
Day 28 The Iron Cross – Rabanal to Manjarin then onto Ponferrada 10.57km 4.2 hrs
The Lady from Atlanta had skipped this part along with many who were in the know last time. They had caught a taxi into Molinaseca or Ponferrada. Not me. I have walked it twice before and quite frankly the second time I walked it with great naivety as we had stopped half way down the…
Day 27 A Quiet walk – Astorga to Rabanal 10km 3 hours.
As anticipated I needed give my body some rest to recuperate so I caught a taxi again a few kilometres out of Astorga and walked the last 10 kilometres up to Rabanal. I really wanted to stay at the Donativo operated by the English Confraternity of St James and I knew that Fräulein had had…
Day 26 And the cold wind blows San Martin to Astorga 14.36km 4.5 hours
So this morning the super moon was supposed to be setting so we headed out in the dark again. The dark is quite easy when the sun doesn’t rise until almost 9am! We headed into town and passed the municipal albergue and caught a glimpse or two of the moon between the clouds. It is…
Day 25 León to San Martin – A moving rest day
Sadly the spectacularly comfortable bed at Hospitaria Pax did not cure all ills. I still felt obligated to retain a private room lest I sneeze all over everyone all night. However I still wanted to move forward ready to walk again tomorrow without having lost too much time. The Lady from Atlanta was also needing…
Day 24 Sahagun to Leon – A train because in Spain the Rain does not fall only on the plain!
So the last few days were long days and I cannot deny a progressive feeling of a cold building. So I booked into Hospetaria Pax – for one reason and one reason only. Our Pop was called Pax because he was a lovely quiet man. So I wanted a lovely quiet night. I caught the…
Day 23 Monestario not so delicio – Frances Half Way Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún 24.84km 8.27 hrs
The nice lady had assured us the breakfast buffet was worth the 10 euro so we decided to partake as the possibility of finding food was getting lower as places closed for the season or had no staff. In addition my hope for a sunrise was dashed again with clouds everywhere. The breakfast was great….
Day 22 A long stretch – Carrion to Calzadilla de la Queza 18.32km 6.54 hours
I should have thought about it last night. I should have known – he was only one. I should have asked him to turn his phone to silent. He had all the gadgets. Why not a vibrating alarm on his wrist like everyone else. It was 5.15 am and that darn Korean was sleeping through…
Day 21 Get thee to the Nunnery again Boadilla del Camino to Carrion de los Condes 27.95 km 9.5 hrs
It definitely rained last night. One can only imagine what the day would be like. The possibility of sunrise shots limited again so a slow departure didnt seem to be a problem. Of course we weren’t thinking of the distance for the day and the impact of a late arrival in our destination. Anyway the…
Day 20 A chilly affair – Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino 21.08 km 7.09 hrs
When I stepped out this morning is was dark and it was cold however to my surprise there was quite a bit of action in the street. Pilgrims were appearing from around corners and the bar directly opposite the exit was open and serving cafe con leche and toast. I had a bit of croissant…
Day 19 A Tree and A Spa Tardajos to Hontanas 21km 7 hours
I didnt care if I was the only one getting up early. I calculated sunrise would be about 8.40 am and I wanted to be near my tree. I didnt have exact coordinates but I knew it was close to the descent into Hornillos where the Choirmaster had lounged at the Irish bar and met…
Days 16 – 18 A lofty arrival- Montes de Oca to Burgos and Tardajos
I’m not going to beat around the bush here. We decided to take the bus into Burgos. The wind and the rain were just terrible. People who walked told stories of inundation, slipping, sliding, being blown sideways, wetness, and freezing temperatures. Actually it seems some guy named Kirk has had a cyclone named after him….
Day 15 An easy walk from Tosantos to Villafranca Montes de Oca 8km 3hrs
Neither Mrs Durham nor I were keen on going up the big hill to San Juan de Ortega today so we limited our walk to the San Anton Abad Hotel and Albergue at the foot of the hill. It was a pleasant walk and not too challenging which was just what my knee and foot…
Day 14 A short skip from Grañon to Tosantos
So the morning was quiet and peaceful apart from the snoring Madrileño and the German man in the corner. My earplugs succeeded in ensuring I had enough sleep that I could function enough to get out of bed and be first in the bathroom. I also managed to be early to the breakfast with only…
Day 13 A warm experience – Azofra to Grañon 22.79km 7hrs 20mins
This morning started with the German Slow walker and me rushing to be the first people out of the albergue so we could get some breakfast from the bar up the street. The French sisters were already there chomping on surprisingly fresh croissants. The Brazilian waiter who had been there the night before looked too…
Day 12 After the rain Navarette to Azofra 24.65km 7.5 hours
The morning was actually colder than I expected. I expected the humidity to hang around and warm the place up after rain like at home. Not here! It was cold enough to have gloves, beanie and three layers on for almost the whole day – at least almost in to Najera. There was plenty of…
Day 11 Mary Poppins would be proud – Logroño to Navarette 14.56km approximately 4.25 hours
So I poked my head out of my own personal window over the camino this morning and saw that the street lights were reflecting from the stone path. It looked wet and it looked slippery. Can’t say I was thrilled with the idea of walking in wet weather but cant say I was thrilled with…
Day 10 A rest day with some Pinchos – Viana to Logroño 11.37km 3 hours
So I woke at 6am which is actually quite a reasonable hour when you have gone to bed at 9.30pm. A couple of people were obviously sleeping in so I did the right thing and dragged everything out into the corridor to pack quietly and carefully. I shone my phone torch around the bed and…
Day 9 The very early bird – Los arcos to Viana 19.56 km 6.5 hours
I know I sound judgmental and I may not be considered a true pilgrim by some. But Ive done it in pain, I’ve done it with lots of wine. And now I’m doing it on my own again for some inexplicable reason. So when I had the pleasure of staying in the same albergue as…
Day 8 The Missing Hypotenuse – Estella to Los arcos 22.3 km 7 hrs
I can’t pretend I wasn’t filled with enthusiasm at the thought of actually visiting the free wine fountain while it was open. You may recall a group of us headed out at dawn in 2018 with cheese and bread and jamon with the hope of having a true pilgrim breakfast at the fountain only to…
Day 7 A rest day – in our opinion of course! Ciraquie to Estella 15.72km 5.37 hours
So this morning I had ordered the breakfast, para llevar = to take away – you know bread bread and a bit of bread 🥖. But Juan mixed it up a notch. Of course there was bread – jamon y queso (ham and cheese) sin butter, a muffin, an apple and a popper (as we…
Day 6 Sunrise and a touch of Rain – Zariquiegi to Cirauqui 22.65km 8.46hrs
It was an early start but then only the early bird catches the worm – or the sun as it were. One American, a Cornish man, a Dutch man and us two Aussies headed out the door at 6.40am precisely. We had intended to leave at 6.30am however the old lady who wasn’t supposed to…
Day 5 Pamplona to Zariquiegui
It was raining this morning and this second day in Pamplona had been the day I had previously taken as a rest day. Instead of a rest day this time I had decided to head up to Zariquiegui – yes you should try to say it out loud. Remember the Z sounds like TH in…
Day 4 Zubiri to Pamplona
The walk out of Zubiri is memorable for the opportunity to see a magnesite mine – something one doesn’t usually just stumble across in every day life, and also memorable for some lovely tracks through wooded areas along a river. After the previous few days of significant ups and downs we did assume the walk…
Day 3 The Big Downer Roncesvalles to Zubiri 23.95km 8.5hours
Don’t be discouraged – the big downer was just that! A big descent.. I was gently awoken by shuffling pilgrims moving about the Roncesvalles dorm getting ready for the day. It stays dark until almost 8 when we were required to be on our way so all were busy going about their business quietly and…
Day 2 Up and Over – Orisson to Roncesvalles 19.3 km 8.5 hours
There were a couple of times through the night when I thought I was suffering a serious fever. The room was so hot I even opened the window to hang my head out and breath. It was only in the early hours when I visited the bathroom and found others panting in the hall way…
Saint Jean arrival and Day 1 Up up up and away!Saint Jean Pied de Port to Orisson 8.4 km 646m ascent
So after arriving in Saint Jean I wandered the well worn cobblestone streets admiring the historic buildings and searching for food (especially baby cheeses). I entertained myself with a few photographs while awaiting checkin time and the arrival of my friend Michelle . After my rest stop in Paris I had walked enough that I…
Bienvenido a Camino 2024
Welcome to Camino 2024. Let’s call it a reconnaissance mission for next year – who knows how far I’ll get with the foot troubles I have had. For now – I am in peak condition! (Apparently.) I can’t believe it’s been 6 years since I walked the Camino Frances with my beloved for the second…
Day 14 Return to the Foreboding trail
(This blog post is later than usual as uploading photos became traumatic! – I also needed a rest but unfortunately became bedridden for a few days in finisterre with a cold and fever but don’t worry im ok now and will try and catch you all up) I had bid farewell to most people from…
Day 13 Areal to Santiago – Our last day and the day with No coffee!! Breaking 2000 km 17.43kms 4hrs 23mins 234.78km
To those who have yet to walk a camino, you may find it difficult to grasp a real understanding of my enthusiasm for walking hundreds of kilometres in less than ideal conditions. But you might at least be able to share my joy in completing these mammoth tasks given my complete lack of sporting prowess….
Day 12 Padrón to Areal – A visit to cure dropsy and a warning for solo pilgrims 10 km 2.51hrs 217.35 kms
Today was an interesting day for a number of reasons. The Young Danes were making a bold dash to Santiago, I was going to visit the church that cures dropsy(I didnt know this at the time) and then i had booked a quiet room in a rural pension 17kms out from Santiago in order to…
Day 11 Calas del Reis to Padrón 21.75km 7 hrs (207.35km)
I woke in my disappointing hotel room early and heard the swish of tyres against water outside on the street. I knew it might be a little wet again. I popped downstairs and grabbed my packed lunch. It was impressive to say the least! A ham and cheese triple decker sandwich an orange a banana…
Day 10 Pontevedra to Caldas del Reis – A spa hotel or not? 24kms (185.6km)
I know you think I’m travelling solo but really you get to know so many people on the camino and I have been travelling with my old German friends actually. Well at least I told them they were the old Germans. But they’re not the only Germans in the village you know. Don’t forget I…
Day 9 Redondela to Pontevedra Another Dark Start 23 km 7hrs 43 (161.6km)
Leaving Redondela saw me go up up up until I landed at a picnic area high above the city. There was still a street light but the camino headed off into the dark of a forest. I sat on a picnic table for a couple of minutes and i called my beloved to keep me…
Day 8 O Porriño to Redondela A Short Cut in the Evening 17kms (total Portuguese 138.6km)
(Yet again i have been tardy in my blog uploads and internet upload speeds have been uninspiring! I shall quickly update you on some of the days). The Old young one waited for me and we left together this morning but first I asked Helena for a photo so I could remember one of the…
Day 7 Tui to O Porriño 17.1kms 5hrs 16 mins (121.6kms)
I headed down the cobblestone streets in front of the convent first. I woke too early and couldn’t go back to sleep so I ate the nice breakfast that was waiting and juiced my own oranges. I was too slow for the Fräulein and the young one and felt I was holding them back when…
Day 6 Crossing the Border and nun so grand Rubais to Tui 23 km 7hrs 20mins (104.5kms)
Rubais to Tui was actually a lovely day. Sure, there was a dash of rain at the beginning but not too much really. Just enough to get us hot and sweaty putting raincoats on and then taking them off. The big event for today of course was going to be walking back into Spain. Not…
Day 5 Ponte do Lima to Rubiães – when I say wet I mean wet! 22.5kms 7.5hrs (81.5kms)
Today started at the youth hostel in ponte do limas like any other day – well any other camino day! We picked up our prepackaged breakfast from reception at 6 (because they don’t open the in-house breakfast until 8:30!) We buttered our bread rolls with sporks and drank our juice tetra pack and I bought…
Day 4 15km 4.5 hours Casa Fernanda to Ponte do Lima (59kms)
This morning started with a breakfast of bread bread and more bread. It was a communal breakfast and, although Fernanda wasn’t herself up, her husband was up feeding the masses and washing dishes before heading off to work. They certainly went out of their way to make people feel comfortable but it also seemed like…
Day 3 Barcelos to Casa Fernanda 12kms and a cat nap!
So yesterday I took the opportunity to try out some public transport options in Portugal. First I bought myself a coffee at the nice corner cafe, I also bought myself a Nata (custard tart) and a spinach and cheese pastry to tuck away in my pack. So off I went to the tram station. The…
Day 1 and 2 Portuguese Coastal Camino Reconnaissance Mission -Porto to Matosinhos to Vila do Conde 32 Kms over two days.
Actually I told my family and friends I was going to head down to Portugal and spend some time somewhere on the coast and reclaim some energy and let my toes recover before meeting my German friends and walking to Finisterre. I also thought I might walk a shortened version of the Portuguese camino and…
Day 5 Sigueiro to Santiago de Compostela – 5.5 hrs 17.8 kms – Finally arriving in One Piece
(I apologise for the delay in posting – at first I was busy catching up with old and new friends and then I was busy planning my next adventure!) So this morning was actually quite cold again but we warmed up quickly. Short cut Sally and I ate breakfast in our albergue – you know…
Day 4 Hospital to Seigura An Honorary German 9hrs 36 mins – 32 kms (34kms on my Garmin)!
The wind was still a little cold this morning and my roommate Shortcut Sally and I had a quick breakfast in the bar at the front of the Pension. It was supposed to be relatively flat but a little long today. The camarera very kindly walked us out to that dreadful highway and pointed us…
Day 3 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma 25 kms 9 hours 40mins
Today I started walking with my new German room mate. I knew I would be too slow for her so I encouraged her to go on ahead as I enjoyed the view and the walk up up up. I know you probably thought yesterday was a complaint about up up up but it was really…
Day 2 Pontedeume to Betanzos 23km 6hrs 50mins All on a chocolate churro and a coffee
Let’s get to the point with this one. Rumour had it this was the easiest day of the Ingles. Rumour was wrong. Definitely wrong. I started the day with a chocolate churro and a coffee exactly where I had finished last night. After I had finished the churro I tipped the hot chocolate in my…
Day 1 Ferrol to Pontedeume – A grandiose Hypotenuse and the Albergue of nightmares 19km 6.15hours
Well I started my day in the dark with head lamp around my neck. There were plenty of street lights to start with. The breakfast the old lady had prepared for 5 euros looked pretty grim so i passed on it and headed down the long street towards the port area as advised by the…
Arrival – The English Way
I was heading to A Coruña to decide whether I would start the Camino Ingles from there because it is said to be the original starting point for pilgrims arriving from Ireland and England. The trouble was it was only 75 kms and if I hadn’t already walked 25 in my home country (even though…
The Irish Spy and the Reconnaissance Mission
So anyway after three days the Irish spy arrived in Burgos to undertake her reconnaissance mission for future caminos. She also planned to soak up some sun as it had apparently already left Ireland for the year. Of course with daily weather changes in burgos at this time of year her visit for some sunshine…
Resting in Burgos
So what have I been doing since Nájera? Well you may recall that I headed to Burgos for a few days rest and recuperation before the Irish Spy’s planned arrival. During this time I managed to take a tour on the Disney train seeing some important sites that I may have missed on foot. I…
Day 17 Exit stage right! Salir a la derecha!
It was dark and warm outside this morning. It had been warm all night. Our room had the two windows but with no breeze it was better to get some circulation from the dormitory. In the morning a French lady said it was a nice sleep because she felt lovely and cool and it didn’t…
Day 16 In memory of dumpster diving
I delayed going to the salon until 5.45 this morning. I had had a difficult nights sleep and was awake much earlier than this. I kept imagining Chinchas! Thank heavens I was just imagining! Our sheet washing and Mavis’s vacuuming had taken care of that! (Or had it – how old was the bag, did…
Day 15 A frenzy of cleaning
This morning I stood outside and watched a bit of the chaos in the salon. I am the first one up each day. I put the washing on, then I give the pilgrims biscuits. I open the salon door and let them escape. But I dont turn the lights on until closer to 6.30am. Everyone…
Day 14 That’s not a ham! This is a ham!
We had been murdering Chinchas and their families for two weeks now. We had stopped them in there tracks on arrival, we had drowned them, cooked them, asphyxiated them, and last but not least, Mavis had squashed them! It sounds creepy I know but they can arrive in the Hilton as well! It seems like…
Day 13 The Sun is Shining, the birds are singing!
After the rain last night it was interesting to see the river all chocolate and fast. I helped an old lady out with her bag transfer and also asked our Jacotrans friend to take some sandals a Frenchman had left behind and leave them in belorado! An old local man had been over catching yabbies…
Day 12 The Calm before the Storm
So this morning I actually slept in until 6.15! Can you believe it. It’s not because anyone has been waking me. In fact apart from the first couple of days where we had a baptism of fire because of the lack of handover, for the most part the early risers have been very quiet. Maybe…
Day 11 Monestario Delicio
Today was Sunday which meant chica de limpiar was here again. There had been a bit of ruckus last night when the Belg drinker arrived back and annoyed a few people. Of course then there was a lot of snoring which has the potential to annoy anyone and everyone. You may recall my comment yesterday…
Day 10 I’m off on the road again I’m on the road again
Wish I could sound like canned heat! My cousin Paul can! And don’t worry, I was on the road again but only for a short time – I didn’t run away from the Albergue! We all thoroughly enjoyed our morning! So this morning was like a dream. It was Saturday and the Chica de limpia…
Day 9 A break in the chaos!
Yep – even the Italians were quiet out in the salon this morning; barely a whisper before 6am. But then I’m afraid to say, a great challenger for the international snoring title had moved himself to the emergency bed beside Mavis last night. These people preparing to leave early were likely all absolutely shattered! Perhaps…
Day 8 A feast to remember
The latecomers 🥴 were looking contright this morning I thought – well not all of them actually. One or two were a little frantic. Starting to get hungover frantic that their washing was missing. Of course they didnt think to politely ask the nice hospitaleras where it was! Don’t worry we didnt throw it out!…
Day 7 – Ground hog day ? Or not?
Gotta say it’s starting to feel a bit like ground hog day in the morning! Except today we bid farewell to Hans and the Blue Mountaineer so it was nice to speak “strayan” for a minute or two! There was a lovely Taiwanese girl also who impressed me with her morning ritual. We had not…
Day 6 Biscuit Perfection!
Well the few Italians here were – you know – not exactly early to bed but certainly early to rise! I don’t understand actually. When my beloved and i left early to beat the heat last year we barely spoke if we were in a dormitory and were paranoid of waking others. The Italians thus…
Day 5 – Sheet rolling perfection!
First let me apologise for the poor grammar and spelling errors. This Blog is stream of consciousness typed on a fold up keyboard with an iPhone. Editing is not a priority but will come with time! Meanwhile take heed that I too am disturbed by the numerous truncations, incorrect autocorrects and missing words! Eventually all…
Day 4 The case of the missing bragas!
Last night, after retrieving their washing from outside, we chased the Italians who had returned late from a bar crawl to bed at 10. There were still 2 older Italian couples , who had arrived late, still out eating as they were desperate for food. Out of the kindness of my heart I had agreed…
Day 3 A scandalous breach of Vegemite and Tim Tam Rights!
Today the hospitaleros were supposed to have a day off as a cleaner comes on the weekends. But day off doesn’t really mean day off when Mavis is in control. I actually slept in and didnt get up until 6! That’s not entirely true I was awake through the night because it was particularly hot…
Day 2 Speak More slowly please! Mas dispacio
Well I said I wake early – and after heading to bed at ten last night I didn’t disappoint. I was up at 5 and was able to farewell the early walkers – which was about 60 percent of the dormitory. There are 90 beds but we only had 38 pilgrims last night. Which means…
Day 1 Auspitalero Duties Begin!
I slept well last night. Boy did I sleep well! My luggage had arrived! I had my swimmers! I could use the most magnificent pool on the camino. By now, if you know me, you must be thinking every pool on the camino is the most magnificent. Well if you’ve just lugged a pack 30…
Day 3 Onward to Najera
This morning I swear I heard something I thought may have resembled gregorian chanting a little after 6am. I’m no talent scout, and I don’t want to sound too judgemental, but it sounded like a someone had forgotten to change the batteries in the record player! It wasn’t long until the team of hospitaleros came…
Day 2 Bienvenido a España
So I slept reasonably well again last night with my fleecy liner instead of my sleeping bag. They do provide a light blanket at Orisson so I definitely used it. I must also say it did get a little nippy during the night so, even though I’d requested the window to stay open, I closed…
Day 1 Sparking joy on the camino
I was awake before they turned the music on at beillari this time. The Dutch girl was also up early and we both tiptoed around getting ourselves ready while the two young spanish men who had arrived late slept soundly. I became their worst nightmare once the lights in the hall came on. I was…
Ultreia Ultreia – Onwards and Upwards!
“I absolutely have no idea what day it is. At least I have no idea how long I’ve been travelling. How long I’ve been in transit. How long since I’ve seen my beautiful backpack and my shock absorbing, folding, micro variable leki hiking poles!” That’s how the day started yesterday. My flight out of Dublin…
Lighters lighters – two for a pound!
Yep that’s how I remembered Dublin from my youth. “Loiters loiters two por a pound!” Peddlers shouting their wares and teaching me a whole new way of speaking. But not this time! Nope this time no peddling in Dublin’s fine city, only high end fashion and expensive second hand shops. But I had my own…
Welcome to Ireland
So my next flight saw me crossing the great European continent to my final leg of the long haul before transiting to the Camino. As the plane drew closer to Ireland, I realised that I was filled with eager anticipation. Was it because my trip years ago was cut short when Dad had a massive…
Going solo and lightening my load !
Yep you read it right! I’m on my own, I’m off! I’m taking it to the next level! Finally managed to shake free of my beloved who will sit gripping his chair by the fire at home, reading my blog with eager anticipation and quite possibly sipping beer, as I conquer mountains and forge through…
Day 40 Santiago a Santiago 4.65 kms – When the Going Gets Tough!
Well, actually, yesterday was tough. Today was a beautiful day – again! We had enjoyed the company of the young ones for a while at the lovely hotel the Choirmaster had booked for us. We had slept in the most comfortable bed we had seen since leaving home. And, ironically, I couldn’t use it but…
Day 38 Azure to oPedrouzo – the Penultimate day – Scallops and Swollen limbs! 21.56kms 9.38hrs
Scallops beers and swollen limbs sound like a strange mixture. But they were all integral parts of the day. Firstly my beloved was in pain. This was the first time in two Caminos I had seen him hobbling and we were only two days out from Santiago! Clearly speeding up had not been to his…
Day 37 Palas del Rey to Arzua 30.52km 11hrs 47mins Not too bad for an injured warrior!
Only 2 days out from Santiago people. I headed off early again so that I could make some headway. Once my beloved caught up I encouraged him to go on ahead. I was slow but I could then take my time without feeling pushed to keep walking when I was in pain. Not that he…
Day 36 Portomarin to Palas del Ray 9hrs 55mins 21km – Slow and steady wins the race
I’ve got to be quick here. I am trying to catch up these last few posts before we head into Santiago. I apologise for my tardiness. I have been busy with friends and physiotherapists during my off time. But here is how the day went. Our dear Camino friend had come all the way to…
Day 35 Barbadelo to Portomarin – 20kms 8 hrs 15mins – Back in the game
What a wonderful day! I could walk again! And there was hope we could still make Santiago together. The fisio yesterday obviously helped but I woke early and also stretched and exercised for about an hour. I used my mini tens and rolled on the spikey ball. It’s hard to explain how stiff one gets…
Day 34 Fiobal to Barbadelo – 11.05 km 5hrs 24mins – Reaching the end of the Road
I told you I was ready for a taxi yesterday when the oasis of Fiobal appeared. I had gone to sleep with great hopes that the rest would cure the problem and in the morning I would be fine. That’s how it usually happens isn’t it? Desafortunatemente not today! I was unable to walk without…
Day 33 O’Cebreiro to Fillobol 17.95 9hrs 10mins – Every Dog has its Day
I wanted to get to Triacastela. I wanted to walk there. But I was in pain and I thought it was all downhill. Thankfully I was wrong. Well kind of wrong. And I’m not sure I should be thankful about that. There were a significant number of uphills to begin with but nothing like the…
Day 32 Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro 12km 5.4 hours – Up into the clouds
What a wonderful way to start the day! Serenaded by the singing Germans as we wandered off into the dark again. The first few km’s were flat and easy but I had a reasonably good recollection of the walk (or should I say climb) for the next 8 kilometres or so. As soon as I…
Day 31 Cacabelos to Vega del Varce 26.69km 8hours 45 mins Ultreia Ultreia Onwards and Upwards!
We had a bit of a sleep in today because we thought there was a communal breakfast at 6:30. We were wrong! All of our friends left early nevertheless we still started our day in the dark. And I still had a problem with my hip and lower back but so far this only bothered…
Day 30 Molinaseca to Cacabelos 8hrs 50mins 22.8kms Over 4 weeks and 637km down (according to Brierley guide book)!
The descent yesterday had given me more than just memories. As soon as I strapped my pack on it hit me. I now had the privilege of back and hip pain! It was extreme. As soon as we left the albergue I felt the stabbing pain in my lower back and hip. This is not…
Day 29 Rabanal to Molinaseca 9hrs 27mins 21.94km A Rose amongst Thorns
The distance wasn’t huge today but I had a slight recollection of a high level of difficulty. We had stopped at El Acebo last time so I could use the biggest pool on the Camino (always too cold for my beloved unless its Queensland in the middle of summer!). This time we would descend to…
Day 28 Astorga to Rabanal 6hrs 54mins 21.22km – The Fräulein with the package!
Well after a great sleep in a real bed it was destined to be another good day wasn’t it? We left a little later than usual, a shorter day, it was a bit cooler, and we wanted our E75 euros worth at the nice hotel so we headed out past the Cathedral at 8am! It…
Day 27 San Martin to Astorga 26.28km 9hrs 40mins – Compleanos felice!
I’m sure you realise by now that the time given above is a door to door time and includes all breaks and everything in between. So a long day can either indicate a day of struggle, a lot of rest stops or a bit of site seeing and/or socialising. Every day is different but one…
Day 26 León to San Martin 27km 9hrs 30mins
Before I get to our travels today I must point out that the albergue Globetrotter was the worst sleep we never had! The bar opposite was open until 5.30am and the noise was literally at our bedroom window. There was also someone allowing patrons of the bar in and out so they could use our…
Day 25 León rest day
I’m not sure it is possible to convey the sheer joy of sleeping in. My only dilemma was that I was starving and had to go down to eat in the dining room. Of course this effort woke me and meant I couldn’t get back to sleep. My beloved snoozed away until 10am – just…
Day 24 Mansilla de Las Mulas to León 20.32 km 8hrs 20mins – “Only” 20 kilometres!
Everyone was saying it. It must be an easy day. “Only 20kms today”. Since when is a 20km walk to be preceded by the word “only”? The truth is though that 20km is “only” after walking 25kms plus. Besides I think it is the breaking point for many people. Beyond 20 the pain and exhaustion…
Day 23 Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas 27.65km 9hrs 40mins
Yep you guessed it – another early start after a pleasant night in a cupboard listening to the Brazilian snoring champions! Life is good! The positive of our albergue was that the hospitalario was up making coffee and breakfasts (read bread!) at 5. Also to cheer me up, while I was sipping coffee in the…
Wandering Aussies 